Burger Night (2 page)

BURGER PRIMER

Whether you are cooking on a gas or charcoal grill or in a frying pan on the stove top, here are tips and tricks to create the perfect burger—meaty and satisfying, yet never dense and bricklike. To make the best burgers, use a light touch with the meat.

TOOLS FOR SUCCESS

These basic tools will help you create foolproof burgers.

GRILLING TONGS & SPATULA
A long-handled, heatproof pair of tongs and a spatula will make easy work of flipping and transferring food on the grill.

GRILL BASKET
This tool prevents small foods from falling through grill grates.

INSTANT-READ THERMOMETER
Check the doneness of burgers with this essential kitchen tool.

BAKING SHEETS
A pair of rimmed baking sheets makes it easy to transport ingredients to the grill and bring cooked food to the table.

CAST-IRON FRYING PAN OR GRIDDLE
Cast iron heats slowly and evenly and holds heat well, making it ideal for cooking burgers. If you like, you can even use a frying pan or griddle on the grill.

FRYING PAN SPLATTER SCREEN
When cooking burgers in a frying pan, this fine-mesh screen will keep oil from spattering on the stove top.

FOOD PROCESSOR
Rev it up to make quick homemade sauces, dressings, relishes, and vegetarian patty mixtures.

DON’T FEAR THE FAT
For the juiciest beef burgers, use ground chuck (80% lean/20% fat) or sirloin (85% lean/15% fat). Leaner cuts and grass-fed beef will yield a drier burger. When buying chicken or turkey, opt for dark meat. It’s still lower in fat than beef and will result in a much tastier burger than white meat.

FRESH IS BEST
Keep in mind that you don’t need to buy ground meat. You can choose any boneless cut and then ask your butcher to grind it for you—or better yet, grind it yourself. Use a coarser grind to avoid a mushy texture. For a special treat, add some freshly ground short ribs, dry-aged steak, brisket, or a combination.

EASY DOES IT
When forming patties, handle the meat as little as possible to prevent heavy burgers. Use 6 to 8 ounces (185 to 250 g) meat per patty, quickly and lightly shaping it into an even disk about 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick and at least as wide as the bun. Work with cold hands and cold meat so that the fat doesn’t melt.

MAKE AN IMPRESSION
The edges of a burger cook faster than the center, which can cause the burger to puff up into a sphere. To avoid this, when shaping the patty, press your thumb into the center to make a dimple about the size of a quarter.

HOLD THE SALT
Wait to add salt until after the patties are formed and just before cooking, and then season generously. Salt inside a patty will start to dissolve the protein strands, which will adversely affect the texture of the burger.

GRILL OR GRIDDLE?
Burger lovers are divided about the best cooking method. Grilling adds terrific smoky flavor, but some insist that a griddle or frying pan allows the flavorful fat to stay with the burger during cooking. Whichever method you choose, do not press down on the meat with the spatula because it will release the juices and fat.

DON’T FLIP OUT
Flip the burgers only once, and only after they have formed a nice brown seal. Don’t flip too soon, and don’t move the burgers around. When the burgers are ready to be flipped, they should dislodge from the cooking surface easily. If they stick, leave them to cook for a few moments longer.

COOKED TO PERFECTION
The surest way to measure a burger’s doneness is to check the internal temperature with an instant-read thermometer. The thickest part of a beef burger should register 130°F (54°C) for medium-rare, 140°F (60°C) for medium, and 150°F (65°C) for well-done. Let your burgers rest for a minute or two before serving to allow the internal juices to redistribute evenly through the meat.

BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER

Turning burgers into “burger night” is as simple as adding a few delicious flourishes. Keep them weeknight-friendly by implementing store-bought shortcuts and make-ahead tips that get dinner on the table faster. When you have more time, make a party out of it with homemade sauces, diner-style fries, and shakes.

MAKE IT A MEAL

Use these ideas as inspiration to transform burgers into unique, wholesome, and balanced meals.

BURGER SALAD
Place two or three 2- to 3-ounce (60- to 90-g) slider patties on top of your favorite salad. Forgo the bun and enjoy with a fork and knife.

PUT AN EGG ON IT
Top each burger with a fried egg, for a delicious and healthful way to add extra protein.

GRILLED VEGETABLES
If the fire is already going, grill some extra vegetables, such as corn, zucchini, onions, or whatever is seasonally available, and serve as a topping or side dish to the burgers. In cold weather, roast the vegetables.

YESTERDAY’S BURGER
Crumble leftover cooked burgers and add to scrambled eggs, salads, quesadillas, or wraps.

SHORTCUTS FOR A BUSY DAY

Most burgers come together quickly and easily over high heat, but here are some shortcuts to help put dinner on the table when time is limited and everybody is hungry.

PREP STATION
For efficient burger assembly, gather together all the ingredients and tools you will need. After lighting the grill or before turning on the stove, form the patties, wash and chop the vegetables, make the sauces, and then arrange everything in a ready-to-go assembly line.

VEGETABLE TOPPINGS
Save prep time by purchasing shredded and/or chopped vegetables to use as a base for a vegetarian burger mixture or as toppings.

SIDES & SALADS
A mixture of lettuces dressed with olive oil and vinegar makes a simple side dish. Tuck in some frisée, watercress, or baby kale for variety. Or purchase your favorite ready-made salads from the prepared-foods section of the grocery store.

MAKE IT AHEAD

Burger night comes together in a jiffy, but here are some strategies for those really busy weeks.

FREEZE IT
Both meat and vegetarian patties freeze well for up to 3 months, as do seafood patties if made from seafood that has not been previously frozen. Form the patties, stack them separated by pieces of waxed paper, and pack them into a zippered plastic bag. You will be able to remove as many patties as you need and then return the remainder to the freezer.

STOCK IT/USE IT UP
Purchase sliced cheeses for ease and keep store-bought salsa and barbecue sauce on hand. For open-faced burgers, get creative with those last couple of English muffins or with day-old bread that is perfect for slicing and toasting. Similarly, leftover cooked vegetables are often good served over a burger.

PREP IT
Keep washed lettuce wrapped tightly in paper towels in a zippered plastic bag. Homemade ketchup, aioli, and salad dressing will really step up your game and can be made a few days ahead. You can form the patties for every burger in this book the day before. By the time the grill is hot, your side dish will be complete, too!

WEEKEND BURGER PARTY

The weekend is a perfect time to invite over a few friends, fire up the grill, and enjoy a burger party. Keep it easy and customizable with a burger bar that allows guests to get creative with their choices.

PREP IN ADVANCE
Form and refrigerate the patties a day ahead of the party. Accommodate a variety of dietary needs and cravings by making two different patties: one meat and one poultry, fish, or vegetarian.

MAKE 1–3 SIDES
Turn to hearty sides that can be popped into the oven just before guests arrive and to salads that can be made a day in advance and refrigerated until serving time. See
Sweet Potato Fries (see recipe)
, Little Gems with
Blue Cheese Dressing & Tiny Croutons (see recipe)
, and Fennel,
Apple & Toasted Walnut Slaw (see recipe)
.

CREATE A BUFFET LINE
Let guests assemble their own burgers: start with plates and utensils, followed by toasted buns, patties, and a variety of condiments, toppings, and side dishes. Or make the grill part of the assembly line: lay out plates, utensils, toppings, and condiments next to the grill and serve the burgers hot off the fire.

PARTY DRINKS
For a diner-themed get-together, serve milkshakes in tall glasses with straws and French fries alongside the burgers. Or, go for a barbecue theme with ice-cold beers and lemonade.

ESSENTIALS

QUICK DILL PICKLES

EASY CRUNCH

You’ll be surprised how quickly a cucumber becomes a delectable pickle. This is a great recipe to put the kids in charge of because it’s simple and fun. Kirby cucumbers are the most common for pickling as they tend to retain their crunch. You can use this same brine to pickle other vegetables such as blanched cauliflower, carrots, beets, or green beans.

WHAT YOU NEED

¾
lb (375 g) Kirby or English cucumbers, cut on the diagonal into
¼
-inch (6-mm) slices

¼
cup (
⅓
oz/10 g) loosely packed dill leaves, roughly chopped

1 cup (8 fl oz/250 ml) distilled white vinegar

2 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon kosher salt

½
teaspoon yellow mustard seeds

Place the cucumber slices and dill into a heatproof nonreactive bowl.

In a small saucepan over low heat, bring the vinegar, sugar, salt, and mustard seeds to a low boil. Cook, stirring, until the sugar and salt dissolve. Pour the mixture over the cucumber slices and stir to combine. Let sit at room temperature until the liquid cools completely. Serve right away or store in the refrigerator in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS (10 OZ/300 G), ENOUGH TO TOP 6 BURGERS

KETCHUP

BETTER FROM SCRATCH

Ketchup—an essential burger condiment—is simple to make from scratch, letting you control exactly which ingredients you want and don’t want. You can freeze ketchup in batches for up to 1 month. Try dividing this recipe up, then mixing in some of the fun flavor variations on the right. They’re great with
Bistro Fries (see recipe)
.

WHAT YOU NEED

1 can (28 oz/875 g) crushed tomatoes, with juice

½
cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) apple cider vinegar

2 tablespoons dark brown sugar

½
teaspoon onion powder

¼
teaspoon garlic powder

¼
teaspoon dry mustard

Pinch of ground cloves

Pinch of celery salt

Pinch of ground allspice

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

Combine the tomatoes, vingear, sugar, onion powder, garlic powder, mustard, cloves, celery salt, and allspice in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil and reduce the heat to low. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the sauce reduces and is nicely thickened, about 1 hour and 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Let cool completely before using. The ketchup can be stored in the refrigerator in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.

MAKES 1¾ CUPS (14 OZ/440 G)

KETCHUP FLAVOR VARIATIONS

CHIPOTLE
Add 1½ tablespoons finely chopped chipotle in adobo sauce.

SRIRACHA
Add 1 tablespoon Sriracha.

SMOKED PAPRIKA
Add 1 tablespoon smoked paprika.

DATE
While the ketchup is cooking, substitute 5 pitted and chopped dates for the brown sugar. Let the ketchup cool, then purée in a blender until smooth.

BASIC YELLOW MUSTARD

MAKE IT HOMEMADE

It takes mere minutes to create a fresh and flavorful yellow mustard that is better than anything you can purchase at the store. To make flavored mustard, start with homemade mustard or store-bought Dijon then mix in different ingredients. Play around with fresh herbs and spice blends to create your own flavors. Mustards will keep in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.

WHAT YOU NEED

1 cup (4 oz/125 g) ground yellow mustard seeds

⅔
cup (5 fl oz /160 ml) apple cider vinegar or white vinegar

1 teaspoon kosher salt

In a small saucepan combine the mustard seeds, vinegar, ⅓ cup (3 fl oz/80 ml) water, and the salt over medium heat and cook, stirring often with a wooden spoon, until thickened, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool completely. Transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate until thickened, about 1 hour and 15 minutes. Season with salt. The mustard can be stored in the refrigerator in an airtight container for up to 1 month.

MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS (12 OZ/375 G)

MUSTARD FLAVOR VARIATIONS

DILL MUSTARD
Stir together ½ cup (4 oz/125 g) Basic Yellow Mustard and 1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill.

HERBED MUSTARD
Stir together 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard, 2 tablespoons whole-grain mustard, and 1 teaspoon
each
chopped fresh tarragon, parsley, and basil.

ROASTED GARLIC MUSTARD
Roast 8 cloves of unpeeled garlic, drizzled with olive oil and loosely wrapped in aluminum foil, for 30 minutes at 450°F (230°C). Peel the garlic, mash it in a small bowl until smooth, and stir it into ½ cup (4 oz/125 g) Dijon mustard.

HONEY MUSTARD
Stir together 5 tablespoons (5 oz/155 g) honey, 5 tablespoons (3 oz/ 90 g) Dijon mustard, and 1½ tablespoons melted butter.

HORSERADISH MUSTARD
Stir together ½ cup (4 oz/125 g) Dijon mustard and 1–2 tablespoons (depending on how hot you want it) prepared horseradish.

BASIC AIOLI

CONDIMENT STAPLE

Both aioli and mayonnaise are burger staples, and the main difference between the two is the addition of garlic and the level of emulsion. They are readily interchangeable and both lend themselves to flavor variations. When making aioli, be sure to use a mild-flavored oil, such as canola, so that the flavor of the oil doesn’t overpower the dip. Start by adding only a few drops of oil in the beginning to allow the mixture to emulsify.

WHAT YOU NEED

1 clove garlic

Kosher salt

1 large egg plus 1 large egg yolk

1 cup (8 fl oz/250 ml) canola or vegetable oil

Combine the garlic and a big pinch of salt in a food processor. Pulse several times until the garlic is finely chopped. Add the egg and egg yolk and pulse to combine. With the machine running, slowly drip a few drops of oil, and then follow with a slow and steady stream of oil. Season with salt and set aside at room temperature until you are ready to serve, or store in the refrigerator in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

MAKES 1¼ CUPS (10 OZ/310 G)

AIOLI OR MAYONNAISE FLAVOR VARIATIONS
For each variation, stir the additional ingredients into the Basic Aioli or 1¼ cups (10 oz/310 g) mayonnaise.

MEYER LEMON
Add the juice and zest of 1 Meyer lemon.

JALAPEÑO-LIME
Add 2 teaspoons finely diced jalapeño chile and the juice and zest of 1 lime.

CURRY
Add 1½ tablespoons curry powder and 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice.

HERBED
Add 2 tablespoons
each
chopped fresh basil and flat-leaf parsley, 2 teaspoons chopped fresh tarragon, and 3 teaspoons fresh lemon juice.

ROASTED GARLIC
Omit the garlic clove in the recipe above. Roast 6 cloves unpeeled garlic, drizzled with olive oil, and loosely wrapped in aluminum foil, for 30 minutes at 450°F (230°C). Peel then mash it in a bowl until smooth. Stir into the aioli.

SPECIAL SAUCE
Stir together 1 cup mayonnaise (8 oz/250 g), 3 tablespoons French salad dressing, 1½ tablespoons sweet pickle relish, 1½ teaspoons finely chopped shallots, 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice, and season with kosher salt and freshly ground pepper.

VANILLA MILKSHAKES & MALTS

CLASSIC PAIRING

What could be more enticing than a burger and shake for dinner? Your kids will be thrilled with this combo anytime. The key to a great milkshake or malt is chilling the glasses in advance and adding softened ice cream to the blender. For variations, use different ice cream flavors or add chocolate syrup. A fun straw is highly recommended.

WHAT YOU NEED

FOR THE MILKSHAKES

1 pint (14 oz/440 g) vanilla ice cream, slightly softened

⅔
cup (5 fl oz/160 ml) whole milk

FOR THE MALTS

1 pint (14 oz/440 g) vanilla ice cream, slightly softened

⅔
cup (5 fl oz/160 ml) whole milk

¼
cup (1
¼
oz/35 g) malted milk powder

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

TO MAKE THE MILKSHAKES
,
place the ice cream and milk in a blender and purée. Serve right away in cold glasses.

TO MAKE THE MALTS
,
place the ice cream, milk, malted milk powder, and vanilla in a blender and purée. Serve right away in cold glasses.

MAKES 2

SAUTÉED MUSHROOMS

TOOTHSOME TOPPING

Simple and fast, but big on flavor and texture, sautéed mushrooms are a tasty topping to just about any burger. The trick is to gently wipe the mushrooms clean as rinsing them under water can make them soggy. Use a big frying pan so that all the mushrooms are in contact with the bottom of the pan—this will help them to caramelize rather than steam.

WHAT YOU NEED

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

½
lb (250 g) white or brown mushrooms, sliced
¼
inch (6 mm) thick

¾
teaspoon kosher salt

¼
teaspoon freshly ground pepper

Warm the olive oil in a frying pan over medium-high heat and melt the butter. Add the mushrooms and stir to coat. Add the salt and pepper and sauté, stirring frequently, until the mushrooms are golden around the edges but still holding their shape, about 8 minutes. Serve right away.

MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP (6 OZ/180 G), ENOUGH TO TOP 4 BURGERS

MUSHROOM FLAVOR VARIATIONS

THYME
Add ½ teaspoon chopped fresh thyme along with the salt and pepper.

LEMON-PARSLEY
Add 1 teaspoon chopped fresh parsley and the zest of 1 lemon just before serving.

VERMOUTH
Add 1 tablespoon dry vermouth during the last 2 minutes of cooking.