Bobby Flay's Throwdown! (30 page)

5.
Transfer the mixture to a 9 × 13-inch baking dish. Place the puff pastry over the hot chicken mixture. Beat the egg with the remaining 1 tablespoon milk, and brush the puff pastry with the egg wash. Then cut slits in the pastry to allow steam to escape. Place the baking dish on a baking sheet, and bake until the filling is bubbling and the crust is golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes before serving.

Name: Jeff Nathan
Establishment: Abigael’s on Broadway
Hometown: New York, New York
Website:
www.abigaels.com
Phone: (212) 575-1407

A tough challenge rolled my way: matzoh ball soup, also known as “Jewish penicillin” for its soothing, restorative properties.

James Beard Award winner Jeff Nathan is the executive chef of New York City’s Abigael’s on Broadway, and his matzoh ball soup is the one I was aiming to beat. Abigael’s on Broadway has set a new standard in kosher cuisine, and Jeff’s innovative, ethnic-influenced cuisine appeals to diners of all ages, kosher or not. His matzoh ball soup is a twist on tradition, starting off with a positively Latin flavor: sofrito, a savory blend of onions, peppers, garlic, and spices.

A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, Jeff is an expert in his field. In addition to publishing tw ocookbooks, he has been the chef and host of public television’s
New Jewish Cuisine
since 1998. This is a man who is comfortable in front of the camera, so he was ready to answer Food Network’s call to be on their show “Kitchen Crusader,” about chefs who kick it up a notch.

New York City is home to the best Jewish delis in the world, and having grown up here I have eaten my fair share of matzoh ball soup. The thing is, I had never tried to make it. Why would I, when I could walk down the street and grab a quart any time of the day? I needed to clear up some matzoh ball confusion, so I called on Sharon Lebewohl, of my favorite traditional Jewish restaurant, the Second Avenue Deli.

Matzoh ball soup has two important components: the stock and the matzoh balls. Sharon’s advice: Matzoh ball soup calls for a clear broth, so never boil it while the chicken and vegetables are flavoring the broth. For flavor, make the broth from chicken bones, a whole chicken, and this great secret: flanken, which most of us know as beef short ribs, if you’d like. More flavor comes from parsley, parsnips, and unpeeled onions, whose skin also gives the broth a lovely golden color. The matzoh balls, made of matzoh meal, eggs, and schmaltz (translation: rendered chicken fat), should be soft and fluffy yet slightly al dente in the center. There are two types of matzoh balls: floaters and sinkers. That’s the difference between being light and airy versus leaden and going straight to the bottom of your stomach. Obviously I was aiming for the former.

Lessons in hand, I was off to the test kitchen to look for matzoh ball inspiration. I steeped a few roasted jalapeños in my broth. Fresh dill, a more traditional touch, added lots of bright flavor. We used seltzer water in our matzoh balls to make them light. (Jeff may disagree on this point, calling it an old wives’ tale, but no one can argue that my matzoh balls weren’t as light as air.) It was time to put our soups to the test and see which take the judges preferred.

The judges were Joan Nathan (no relation to Jeff), renowned Jewish cookbook author, and Janice Poritsky, “Grandma” from
www.grandmaschickensoup.com
. If there was anyone with the credentials to call this race, these women were it. Both found Jeff’s broth to be beautiful and clear, and while a little spicy, it was full of great flavor. His matzoh balls were very soft, and the soup, though more Mexican than Jewish, was very colorful. Though mine had a darker broth, it was flavorful, and Joan preferred the flavor and texture of my matzoh balls. This was proving to be a tough decision, but in the end, the “doctor” paged to the winner’s circle was Jeff Nathan. It was a close one, and that was enough for me. Whether you keep kosher or not, if you find yourself with a stomach that needs healing, take yourself to Abigael’s on Broadway for a bowl of the tastiest penicillin you’ve ever had.

SERVES 4

1.
To make the stock,
preheat the oven to 375°F.

2.
Place the chicken carcasses and wings in a large roasting pan, and toss with the oil. Roast, turning once, until deep golden brown, about 25 minutes.

3.
Transfer the carcasses and wings to a large stockpot, and add the onions, celery, carrots, peppercorns, dill, parsley, and bay leaf. Pour in 3½ quarts cold water, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, skimming the surface often, for 2 hours.

4.
Strain the stock through a cheesecloth-lined strainer into a large saucepan, and discard the solids. Make a small slit in the side of each jalapeño with a paring knife, add them to the stock, and boil over high heat until reduced by half (to about 6 cups).

5.
Discard the jalapeños, and let the stock cool to room temperature. Then refrigerate it until cold, at least 8 hours or overnight. Once it is cold, remove the layer of fat that will have risen to the top and reserve it for making the matzoh balls.

6.
To make the matzoh balls,
heat the chicken fat in a small skillet over medium heat, add the chives, and cook for 30 seconds. Set aside to cool slightly.

7.
Whisk together the eggs, dill, seltzer, sugar, salt, and pepper until combined. Add the matzoh meal and chicken fat and chives and stir to combine. Cover well and refrigerate for at least 8 hours and up to 24 hours.

8.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Form the mixture into 8 equal-size balls. Add to the boiling water, reduce the heat, cover, and simmer until very tender, about 1 hour and 20 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon to a bowl.

9.
To serve,
bring the chicken stock to a simmer, add the matzoh balls, and cook until just heated through, about 5 minutes.