Bobbi Brown Makeup Manual: For Everyone from Beginner to Pro (31 page)

Step 10

Mascara

Choose your mascara formula
based on your needs and desired effect. Thickening mascara gives individual lashes a denser look and is ideal if you have a sparse lash line. For lashes that are enhanced but still natural looking, choose defining and lengthening mascaras. Waterproof mascara is a good choice if you want a long-lasting look or if your mascara tends to smudge.

When applying mascara,
hold the mascara wand parallel to the floor and brush from the base of the lashes to the tips. Roll the wand as you go to separate the lashes and avoid clumps. Always apply two to three coats.

If you choose to curl the lashes,
do so before applying mascara. Curling lashes after applying mascara can break the hairs.

True black mascara makes the most impact. Choose brown for a softer look.

FACE CHART

The purpose of a face chart is to have a reference of a makeup lesson. Many women tape them to their mirrors while they try to recreate the look.

Chapter 8

SPECIAL MAKEUP APPLICATIONS

Once you master the basic techniques of makeup,
it’s both fun and easy to take it to the next step for a variety of looks.
Individual beauty is about knowing what to do with your own unique skin tone and features. And it’s also about being confident enough to break out of your comfort zone.

DIVERSE BEAUTY

African American Beauty

For dark under-eye circles,
use peach corrector and yellow-toned concealer.

Find a foundation that exactly matches skin tone.
Skin tone is often uneven, with the forehead and cheeks slightly different shades. Experiment using two different tones of foundation or mixing two shades together. Undertones can be yellow, orange, red, or blue.

Some dark skin looks best with no blush
or with a bit of deep bronzer. For medium-toned skin, try bronzing powder or a currant-toned blush. A range of blush tones in plum, rose, or pink look good on lighter skin tones.

Freckled Beauty

Embrace
your freckles.

If you need concealer,
look for a yellow-toned product that is just one shade lighter than the skin tone.

Foundation can be used to cover redness
around the nose or blemishes. Tinted moisturizer gives some coverage but lets the freckles shine through.

Light tawny, coral, or pink tones of blush
work well.

Sometimes foundation has to match the freckles
that are a shade or two darker than the skin underneath. Do not look for coverage all over the face, only on the redness.

Porcelain Beauty

Sunscreen
helps keep skin looking young and beautiful.

Use porcelain-toned foundation
to cover redness, dark circles, and blemishes.

Use white face powder.

Avoid using blush with brown undertones.
Go for pastels—pale pink is awesome.

Tan bronzer always looks dirty
on porcelain skin.

Eye makeup in cool tones
works best for porcelain skin tones. Avoid any red-toned products, which can make you look tired.

Pastel lip colors complement
very light skin tones.

Asian Beauty

Use yellow-toned foundation.
Though skin tones vary, all have yellow undertones.

Fill in sparse brows
with an eye shadow powder in dark brown. Avoid using black or charcoal, even if the hair is black, because it will look too heavy.

Accentuate eyes with liner
on the top only or the top and bottom. Use a stronger line on the top. Make sure it shows when the eyes are open.

Layer shadows to define
the eyes. Don’t make the mistake of using a very dark shadow to draw in a crease.

A pop of bright coral or pink blush
on the apples of the cheeks look fresh and pretty.

Middle Eastern Beauty

Use a corrector to brighten
very dark under-eye circles.

Sometimes you have to layer a few correctors
(pink over peach), and then add concealer.

Find a yellow-toned foundation
that exactly matches the skin. The right foundation often has a bit of orange as well.

Line the eyes
with black liner or a charcoal shadow. Never go lighter than mahogany.

Use blush
in deep rose and pink shades. Don’t be afraid to find your pop of color.

Deep lip colors
look wonderful on those with darker lip tones.

Avoid colors that turn ashy.

Latin Beauty

Skin tones vary
from very fair to dark.

Use foundation with a yellow undertone
that exactly matches skin.

Neutral eye shadows look best
for every day. Try shades of navy, silver, chocolate, or gold for evenings or special occasions.

Accentuate natural lip color
with lipstick. Choose brighter or deeper tones for evening.