B003YL4KS0 EBOK (34 page)

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The Samurai Bun:
Tilt your head forward and gather your hair at the crown using a fabric-covered ponytail holder. As you loop the band the second or third time, don’t pull the hair through, so it resembles a fan. As with the Unicorn, when you let down your hair, use your fingertips to lightly shuffle the hair at the roots. Then decide whether it needs a full-on cleansing or just a spritz with lavender spray.

The Samurai Bun

Q
What can I do for an itchy scalp?

IF YOU HAVE AN ITCH, SCRATCH IT

A
If you’re recovering from a long-term addiction to shampoo, your scalp will probably be going through an adjustment period. It’s like weaning yourself off bubbly sodas and replacing them with carrot juice. An itch is often a sign that your scalp is healing, like a scab itches as a wound begins to heal. It’s also a sign that your scalp needs more moisture. After all, shampoo abuse has kept the scalp (and your curls) in a constant state of dehydration. For immediate relief, whip up the exfoliating scalp scrub (see
page 84
). Wet your hair thoroughly, and apply the scrub to your scalp using circular, massaging motions. Rinse hair thoroughly, and condition it. Also, try spot-cleansing (see
page 42
) or spritzing your scalp with lavender spray (see
page 83
), which contains natural medicinal properties that help soothe and cleanse the skin.

If the itching continues, you may have a scalp condition, so see your doctor. Remember, however, that some doctor-recommended prescriptions may heal the scalp but can wreak havoc on the hair. If you need to use a prescribed product, first apply a generous amount of botanical
conditioner to wet hair. Then, and only then, apply the doctor-recommended product to the scalp. That way, when you’re rinsing out the harsh topical prescription, the barrier of conditioner is protecting your precious locks. What a difference this simple solution makes to the preservation of your hair!

Q
My color grows out so fast and my roots look like a landing strip! Any suggestions?

ESCAPE ROOTS

A
When your curls are wet or dry, take a bobby pin that’s close to the color of your hair and apply gel to it. Weave the bobby pin through the roots of the hair, taking strands from each side of your part as though you’re sewing a seam together. Once the hair is dry, the hairpin will have given your hair a lift and it will hide your roots. You can either leave the bobby pin in or take it out.

In a pinch and for the short-term, you can use “hair mascara” (any waterproof mascara will do) to touch up your roots.

Q
I’m having a bad hair day. Help!

NO MORE BAD HAIR DAZE

A
Certainly some days are
hairier
than others. Maybe you’re rushing off first thing on a morning when you didn’t put enough conditioner or gel in your hair and a strong gust of wind disturbs your well-defined curls. Or you go shopping, try on lots of sweaters, and leave the dressing room with your hair flying out in all directions. What can you do short of grabbing a hat or pulling those curls back in a ponytail?

Spritz your hair with water or lavender spray. Then wind a few curls tightly around your finger, and clip them for a minute or two to recreate your bouncy, defined curl. Or tilt your head so that your hair falls forward, place your fingertips on your scalp, and give the roots a shuffle to lift and open the hair. One thing to note: You’re a curly girl, so even if your hair isn’t behaving the way you want it to, you may be the only one who knows it! Own it and accept all that it gives you.

Q
My hair looks dull. How can I get it to shine?

GLISTEN TO ME

A
Shine is always an issue with curly hair. Unlike straight hair, which has a flat surface and can reflect a lot of light, curly strands have contours so light reflects only off part of them. Also, if your hair’s past includes shampooing, blow-frying, and straightening, be patient. You may never get the sheen that your naturally straight sisters can achieve, but after a few weeks of TLC and conditioner, conditioner, and more conditioner, shinier curls will emerge.

Q
I’m going through menopause. Can the hot flashes and night sweats negatively affect my hair?

THE PLUSES TO THE FLUSHES

A
Actually, curly hair can benefit from the extra moisture that you’re suddenly producing. Sweat is part of the body’s ecosystem and is a natural cleansing agent. If the hot flashes are especially frequent or severe, you may want to wear your hair up (see
chapter 15
,
page 156
, for updos), especially in situations when you feel the need to keep your cool. Or try a shorter hairstyle. And always carry a travel size bottle of lavender spray in your bag for a refreshing spritz to your hair, face, or neck when you’re on the go.

Q
My hair sometimes looks stringy, not curly. Is this from too much product?

GRANOLAS, NOT CURLS, ARE SUPPOSED TO CRUNCH

A
Overcleansing and leaving in too much conditioner or using alcohol-filled gels can give the hair a petrified, wet, crunchy look. It doesn’t allow the hair to swell to its natural, three-dimensional girth. If you’re cleansing daily, give hair a break and just refresh with a spritz of lavender spray at the roots. Brushing and combing can also cause frayed, stringy strands, so toss that brush and simply use your fingers to comb through your hair in the shower when it’s slathered in conditioner. The other message your stringy strands may be sending is that it’s time for a trim or possibly a shape change.

Q
I’m really short on time in the morning. Do I need to wet my hair every day?

IF IT AIN’T BROKE, DON’T FIX IT

A
Your hair will tell you whether it needs a full-on cleansing to look and feel its best. Some curly girls report that cleansing or wetting their hair once every three days is all they need; others need to cleanse more often. You be the judge. If you don’t have time for even a quick spritz or a clip at the roots in the morning, you may want to reevaluate your schedule—and what really matters to you.

Q
What is a clarifying shampoo, and does it restore shine?

PACKAGING, PACKAGING

A
Let me clarify one thing. I have no faith in shampoos, and those that say “clarifying” terrify me even more. Products such as après-pool shampoos or clarifying shampoos and conditioners are merely another way to sell you more of what you don’t need. These products are often harsher on hair than regular shampoos, stripping it of hydration. Don’t waste your money on one more cleverly packaged product that will probably damage your hair and make your curls look worse! Just keep up your new, curly girl routines.

Q
I travel a lot. How do I protect my hair from changes in climate and water?

WHEREVER YOU GO, YOU TAKE YOUR CURLS

A
Your hair is a natural weather barometer, so trust what it tells you. Though there’s no need to adjust your hair care routine, you may have to vary the amount of conditioner you leave in the hair and the amount of gel you use on your traveling locks. You may find that you need less in Los Angeles because the weather is generally dry—a perfect climate for curls—and more in England where frequent drizzle can bring out the frizzies in even the best-tressed curls. Don’t leave home without your conditioner and lavender spray: Both will see you through almost any climatic situation. (And the moisturizing spritz is great for refreshing your skin, hair, or other body part midflight.)