Around the Shabbat Table (18 page)

PREHEAT
the oven to 350°F.

MAKE
the batter: stir together the flour, baking powder, cinnamon, salt, and nutmeg in a large bowl.

IN
another large bowl, using an electric mixer, beat the eggs with the sugar until pale and thick, about 5 minutes. Beat in the oil, applesauce, and vanilla.

WITH
the mixer on low speed, gradually beat in the dry ingredients. Continue beating until the batter is smooth.

POUR
half the batter into the prepared pan. Cover with half the apples. Spoon the remaining batter over the apples and arrange the rest of the apples on top. Bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean; begin checking at 1
¹
⁄
₂
hours, but because of the moist apple layer in the middle, the cake can take up to 2 hours or more.

LET
the cake cool on a rack before you remove the sides.

COOK'S NOTE:
The cake will take considerably less time to bake if prepared in a 13 by 9-inch pan, with a single layer of batter, topped by a single layer of apples, though the presentation will not be quite as attractive.

ROASTED APPLE–WALNUT NOODLE KUGEL

yield:
6 TO 8 SERVINGS

Here apples combine with walnuts and prunes to work an alchemy of golden autumn tastes. For a tempting dairy version, see the variation that follows.

¹
⁄
₃
cup packed brown sugar

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 cups unsweetened apple juice

¹
⁄
₂
cup granulated sugar

¹
⁄
₃
cup pitted prunes, quartered

1
¹
⁄
₂
teaspoons vanilla extract

Salt

4 ounces medium flat egg noodles (not the twisted spiral kind, which won't absorb as much of the liquids and flavoring)

¹
⁄
₂
cup walnuts, lightly toasted and coarsely chopped

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

¹
⁄
₈
teaspoon nutmeg, preferably freshly grated, or mace

4 large eggs, separated

¹
⁄
₃
cup graham cracker crumbs (optional)

PREHEAT
the oven to 400°F. Line a large baking sheet or very shallow roasting pan with lightly greased foil and on it spread out the apples in a single layer, rounded sides down (so that most of the sugar will be trapped and melted in the curve, rather than sliding off onto the pan). Sprinkle with the brown sugar and lemon juice and roast in the middle of the oven until lightly browned and just tender, 25 to 35 minutes, depending on the variety of apples. Turn the apples over halfway through the cooking process, and spoon the accumulated syrupy juices over them. Remove the apples from the oven and reduce the oven temperature to 350°F. When the apples are cool enough to handle, cut into large chunks.

GREASE
an 8- or 9-inch square baking pan (or other shallow 8- to 10-cup baking pan) thoroughly.

IN
a wide, heavy medium saucepan, combine the apple juice, granulated sugar, prunes, vanilla, and a pinch of salt. Bring to a boil and continue cooking over high heat, stirring occasionally, until reduced by about half. Remove from the heat and cool slightly.

BRING
2 quarts cold water and 1 teaspoon salt to a rapid boil in a large saucepan. Add the noodles and cook until tender. Drain well. In a large bowl, combine the noodles, prune mixture, roasted apples, walnuts, cinnamon, and nutmeg. In a separate bowl, beat the egg yolks well until thick and light, and stir into the mixture. In a clean bowl, beat the whites until stiff but not dry. Gently fold about one third of the whites into the batter, then fold in the rest.

TURN
the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top. If desired, sprinkle with graham cracker crumbs.

BAKE
the kugel for about 45 minutes, or until it feels firm, the sides pull away slightly, and the top is lightly browned. Let cool completely to set. You can eat it at room temperature, but to really savor the toasty apple flavors, warm the kugel until heated through. It may not cut neatly, and perhaps it will appear somewhat messy on the plate, but it will taste divine.

COOK'S NOTE:
This is also lovely flavored with a little crystallized ginger.

Dairy Version
Follow the above recipe, up through combining noodles, prune mixture, roasted apples, walnuts, and spices. In a separate bowl, use an electric mixer on low speed to beat 8 ounces cream cheese (softened and cut into bits) with 1 cup evaporated milk until smooth and fluffy. Beat in the yolks. Combine this with the noodle-prune-apple mixture, then fold in the beaten whites, as above. Pour into a slightly larger pan (at least 9 inches square) that has been well greased. Sprinkle top with
¹
⁄
₂
cup graham cracker crumbs mixed with 3 tablespoons melted butter. Bake for 45 to 50 minutes at 350°F, following the directions for cooking and serving above.

UPSIDE-DOWN CARAMEL-CRANBERRY-PECAN NOODLE KUGEL

yield:
ABOUT 12 SERVINGS

I don't like complicated desserts. Those that do require a bit more fuss must still retain their innocence—which is why many of my favorites are as likely to show up on the breakfast table as at teatime or dinner's end.

I'm particularly fond of noodle pudding, or kugel, whose lush, melting texture is forgiving enough even for the most pastry-shy and invites lots of homey experimentation. I always prepare it in large quantities because leftovers make such wonderful brunches and snacks.

This kugel, blanketed with warm, gooey caramel zapped with tart cranberries, is lovely on a crisp, autumn Shabbat afternoon—or morning.

FOR THE TOPPING

10 tablespoons (1
¹
⁄
₄
sticks) unsalted butter, plus additional for greasing the pan

2
¹
⁄
₂
cups cranberries, washed, picked over, and patted dry

1 cup lightly toasted pecans, coarsely chopped

1
¹
⁄
₃
cups packed dark brown sugar

¹
⁄
₄
teaspoon salt

FOR THE KUGEL

Salt

12 ounces wide, flat egg noodles (not the twisted spiral kind, which won't absorb as much of the liquids and flavoring)

4 tablespoons (
¹
⁄
₂
stick) unsalted butter, melted

¹
⁄
₂
cup dried cranberries (if very dry, plump them in very hot tap water for 20 minutes and drain before using)

8 ounces cream cheese, softened and cut into bits

1 cup small-curd creamed cottage cheese (see Cook's Note)

1 cup sour cream

5 large eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

¹
⁄
₂
cup pure maple syrup or granulated sugar

MAKE
the topping: generously butter the bottom and sides of a 13 by 9-inch glass baking dish and scatter the cranberries and pecans evenly on the bottom.

IN
a heavy medium saucepan, combine the brown sugar, butter, and salt. Cook over medium heat, stirring, until the mixture comes to a boil. Pour this caramel evenly over the cranberries and pecans in the pan.

FOR
the kugel, bring 5 quarts of cold water and 1
¹
⁄
₂
teaspoons salt to a rapid boil in a large pot. Add the noodles and cook until just tender. Drain the noodles and return them to the pot. Stir the butter in until melted and let cool.

MIX
the dried cranberries into the noodles (I like to use my fingers to toss them together, breaking up any clumps of dried fruit).

IN
a very large bowl, beat the cream cheese on low speed until smooth and fluffy. Gradually beat in each of the following, one by one, until well blended: the cottage cheese, sour cream, eggs, vanilla, maple syrup or sugar, and a generous pinch of salt. Add the noodles and toss until thoroughly combined. Spoon the cheese-noodle mixture evenly over the prepared cranberry-pecan topping in the pan. Smooth the top, then cover the pan with foil and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or, preferably, overnight.

PREHEAT
the oven to 350°F.

BRING
the kugel to room temperature. The baking pan will be quite full, so set it on a cookie sheet lined with foil, in case the bubbling caramel causes spillover. Uncover the pan and bake for about 1 hour, or until the top is golden-brown and feels firm, a knife inserted in the center comes out clean, and the sides of the kugel pull away from the pan slightly.

LET
the kugel cool on a rack until set. The kugel is best warm (reheat if necessary) but also tasty at room temperature. Don't serve it refrigerator-cold.

TO
serve, run a thin-bladed knife around the edges to loosen the kugel, then place a large platter or cutting board over the baking pan. Holding the platter and baking pan together tightly with both hands, invert the baking pan over the platter. Remove the baking pan and replace any fruit or nuts remaining in the pan on top of the kugel. Or cut and serve the kugel directly from the pan, inverting the spatula as you place the kugel on individual dessert plates.