Authors: Damon Galgut
The people themselves were a different sort of landscape and they claimed his attention too. Searight had not been lying about the legs, which were universally visibleâthe vigorous, toned, muscular legs of the lower classes, and their feet. Flesh, as Searight had said, was everywhere on display, usually toiling, and often on his own behalf. The figures he saw in passing seemed to move with a deliberateness, a distinctness, that made him notice them afresh. The Indians were inside their bodies, he decided, in a way that the British were not. His own flesh impeded his spirit. He was terribly excited, in the daytime, by the way young Indian men strolled about, hand in hand, or hung onto each other like vines; and at night he was stirred by erotic dreams of a sort that hadn't troubled him since childhood.
He had started to notice, too, the rigid hierarchy of the society around him. Among the Indians, the first division was between Mohammedan and Hindu. Beyond that, everything was stratified by caste: the Untouchables and the Brahmins were in adjacent, contiguous worlds. But the British, too, had succumbed to casteâor at any rate, as they usually did, to class. At the bottom of the heap were the Eurasians, those of mixed-race. Then came the non-official Europeansâprofessional men, railway employees, tea-planters and the like. Then came the army officers, followed by the smug government servants and the political players and finally, at the very top, floating in the high ethereal zone, were the Viceroy and his circle. Each was conscious of their place, and guarded it against incursions from below; yet they mixed socially at the club, of which every town had one, and where for the most part Indians were not allowedâthough in some establishments the rules had relaxed enough to let the occasional Maharajah slip through.
From one level to the next, up and down the bewildering social staircase, Morgan passed. He was an outsider; he settled nowhere long enough to take a place. Yet he himself wasn't free, either of his skin or the designation it bestowed on him. And he had a shadow in tow, to remind him of the depths underfoot.
On board a ship in Greece years before, he had met an Oxford undergraduate by the name of Rupert Smith. They were very different types in temperament and in outlook, but they had maintained a touchy, long-distance friendship ever since. Smith was part of the Indian Civil Service, stationed in Allahabad, and he had organised a servant for Morgan, who had come to meet him off the ship. So Baldeo, in fact, had been the first person Morgan spoke to on Indian soil.
But Morgan was used to English housekeepers and maids and gardeners, removed from him only by class. A great deal more than that intervened between him and Baldeo: race and language and custom thickened the air, so that they couldn't see each other clearly, and therefore they had begun with a farce. After meeting him, Morgan had instantly forgotten Baldeo's face, and did not recognise him the next morning, sleeping outside his hotel room door. Instead he had searched everywhere for him, and sent messages, and suspected Goldie's servant of hiding him away, and all the while he had resisted the attentions of the strange, wizened, persistent man who followed him around, waiting for instructions. By the time he knew him again, he had humiliated himself and his folly hung over their subsequent relations like a debt that had not yet been paid.
Misunderstanding continued to dog them. Morgan found Baldeo's pocketbook, with all his credentials, laid on top of his clothes in his big travelling trunk. He was irritated, thinking it cheeky that this had been done without permission, but said nothing. Fortunately so, because he discovered some days later that as Baldeo's employer he was entitled to these papers. His servant had merely done the necessary, being ahead of him on every question.
He had come to realise that he could not manage without Baldeo. Like a familiar spirit, he was always with Morgan or, more accurately, just in front of him, going ahead to stations with the luggage, securing seats on the train, finding porters and tonga-wallahs, running errands, readying clothing and bringing hot water when it was required, cooking for him. Without Baldeo, India would have fallen in on Morgan, burying him in confusion.
Though it was true that much of what he did see confused him nevertheless. When he had first met Masood, his only knowledge of this country was a vague mix-up: elephants and holy men and hookahs and temples swirled around in a gauzy idea of a place. He had done a lot since then to educate himself and, once his visit was certain, he had read a great deal in preparation. Now all of that seemed useless. The reality he was passing through displaced many of his previous notions, and his notion of a novel too.
Insofar as he'd considered it at all, the book he'd imagined he might write would repeat his previous novels, where the chilly reserve of his English characters had broken down in the warmth and abandonment of Italy. Whatever their differences, surely Indians and their British rulers had their humanity in common, and he might place that at the forefront of his story. But how could these literary aspirations withstand what he was experiencing now? Every day served up a scene, a conversation, that was like two sharp edges grinding against each other. It was the meeting of the two worldviews, one way of life imposed upon another, which brought out the worst in both. In Simla, for example, he lived through the following, which was his first genuinely miserable vision of India's future.
He had been on several enforced jaunts already on his journey. There had been the outing in Aligarh, and in Lahore there had been a spiritless garden tea, featuring a cast of educated Indians making small talk. Such “bridge parties” had become fashionable in recent times, in an attempt to stem the rising tide of Indian nationalism. And it was in the same spirit, perhaps, that Morgan was taken now as a guest to what had been described, optimistically, as an “advanced” Mohammedan wedding.
It was a memory that wrung his heart anew each time he returned to it in his mind. The rationalist elements of the wedding seemed to have been put on for the benefit of the watching Europeans; certainly the Mohammedans were uneasy, muttering about how it was all contrary to Islamic law. The bride was unveiled, sitting with the groom on a sofa on a dais. The Moulvi who married them read from the Koran in a desultory way, before a local poet recited overwrought poetry about Conscience singing like a bulbul in some metaphorical garden. But the saddest moment was an involuntary one: a gramophone at one end of the garden blared out “I'd rather be busy with my little Lizzie”, while on a terrace at the other side a gathering of devout Muslim men performed their evening prayer.
The opened hands, the kneeling, the forehead pressed to the ground: he had seen Masood go through these ritualistic motions many times, and found them moving, perhaps because of what they meant to his friend; but it was impossible to feel anything except horror today. It was because of the whole straitened, strained gathering, and the awful song on the gramophoneâwhich by chance came to its end at the exact moment the prayer did. To Morgan's eyes, the only loveliness in the proceedings belonged to those devout figures, now returning without a fuss to the milling crowd.
The wedding, rather desperately, was termed a success. The bridegroom's brother visited the next morning to thank everybody for coming and to tell them, emphatically, that all those who had objected yesterday had been pacified by the Moulvi's speech. But Morgan was more convinced by an Englishwoman, a Miss Masters, with whom he took an afternoon stroll later that day around one of the hills of Simla. She didn't mention the wedding, and perhaps hadn't even attended, but she launched without any preamble into a confession of how much she disliked Indians.
“I didn't used to,” she told him. “I came out here with no feeling against them. But now I can't endure them. It is their own fault, really. Have you a bad feeling against Indians, Mr. Forster?”
Morgan murmured that he did not.
“Oh, it will come, believe me, in time. The change came slowly in my case. Even the Indians expect it. They say all the English, but especially the women, change inside six months. And I think they are not wrong.”
Morgan didn't answer. Simla was built on a ridge, so that views opened on both sides, and he kept his attention on a vista of mountains, rippling away.
“But one has to have servants, of course,” she added quickly. “I myself have many. Have you any servants, Mr. Forster?”
He admitted that he did have one.
“You will hate him in due course,” she said.
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There had scarcely been a moment since he'd arrived in this country when he'd been alone, and he wanted to think about everything he'd seen. To escape from the humans for a while, he headed into the mountains. Baldeo was sent in advance with two coolies, carrying bedding on their heads, to the dak bungalow on the Tibet road.
He left Simla at noon with his lunch in a pack on his back, and walked for four hours to Fagu, with the wild road twisting through a wilder landscape, and the horizon splintered into a thousand jagged lines. He thought about his mother as he tramped. Time and distance had softened her outlines, so that he longed for her without ambivalence. Their alliance was occasionally sisterly, pinned together with cackling and gossip, and these moments had strengthened with her absence. Despite their difficulties, she had always been a good travelling companion and he imagined her beside him now, keeping pace in a rickshaw. Though he was very aware of his solitude too, through which the mountains pressed upon his mind.
He was still in the foothills; the Himalayas proper were seventy miles away, but the massive snowy peaks seemed to hang overhead. The air was icy and clear, and that night the stars burned with a close, cold fire. But their clarity was like a knife that cut too deep: Morgan woke in the small hours into a disturbing knowledge about Masood.
He saw his time in Aligarh properly at last, and understood what it meant. Masood had been affectionate and loving, as always; he had been happy to see Morgan and had made him feel welcome. But his distraction wasn't a temporary state, which would pass of its own accord. Indeed, it had always been the deepest aspect of his nature. Masood was slipping away from him; might, in fact, already have slipped. Now that he was back in India, his own country, where he belonged in a way that he never could in England, another kind of life had taken hold of him. He didn't need Latin lessons from Morgan any more; in truth, he didn't need anything. Morgan would see him again, of course, and they would probably have an enjoyable time togetherâand then Morgan would leave.
In the morning when he woke up, the mountains seemed somehow smaller than yesterday. Nevertheless, he might have travelled into them further, along the road to Tibet, if he had not arranged to meet Goldie and Bob in the other direction. Agra was the first place where local hospitality ran out and at last they had to check into a hotel. Bob was fretful and restless by now, not liking India, wanting to get on to China and then back home, and they hurried on to Gwalior.
The Morisons had given him an introduction to a Mr. Sultan Ahmed Khan, who had booked rooms for them at the hotel, met them at the station when they arrived, and then asked them to tea the following day. When they requested directions to his house he said, “Oh, no matter, I will send my servant to bring you. Simply wait.” They simply waited, and no servant came. In the evening Khan appeared, with his English wife, and asked what had happened to them. “I invited a few of my friends and we have been expecting you, but you did not come.”
“But you told us you would send your servant for us.”
“Yes, yes, so I did, but as everybody knows where my house is, I decided the servant wasn't necessary.”
Morgan was so charmed by the illogicality that he forgot to stay cross. Where else could this have happened but India? It struck him as revealing, though of what exactly he couldn't explain.
There was a great deal by now that he didn't understand, though mostly this amused him, rather than causing anguish. Goldie, however, was suffering. Morgan rode with the older man atop a painted elephant to see some Buddhist temples sprouting from a giant rock, after which they went down the other side to look at statues of naked Jain saints. These were very wonderful, in the sides of a deep chasm full of churning water and trees. In a certain light, if you came upon them unexpectedly, they might have been alive, something the earth itself had thrown up; and possibly it was this thought which caused Goldie to flinch and crouch, his face sealed against them.
In a general way, Morgan could see, Goldie wasn't happy. He had come to India in a spirit of enquiry and enthusiasm, and had thrown himself vigorously into the continent. Along the way he had delivered lectures and engaged in debates and tried to absorb what he saw. Goldie was a believer in the imperial project, which is to say, in the civilising power of social progress. But his visit to Ellora had left him troubled, and some of his unease came pouring forth now.
“We are from a Greek tradition,” he told Morgan. “And that has nothing to do with India. Look at it! This mixture of religions, all in one placeâwhat do we have in common with any of them?”
They were in the gorge, near a great stone figure blackened by dripping water, its face turned towards a tree. It wasn't unlike a Greek carving, Morgan thought, only perhaps on a different scale, but he thought it best not to say so. Instead, he pointed out:
“Religion isn't everything.”
“But here it does seem to be. Have you attempted any rational conversations lately? Religion is always part of it, there's no escape. But not the sort of religion we understand. No, this is superstition and cruelty, and it can't be reformed. And let's not talk of the dirt and disorder! There is no closing the gap, whatever we do.”
Morgan murmured, “Oh, come. I have seen many instances of whites and Indians getting on famously.”