An Exaltation of Soups (31 page)

Prep the ingredients as directed in the recipe list.

1. In a large soup pot, stir the tomatoes, garlic, chile peppers, green onions, and epazote leaves (or substitutes) together and place over medium heat. Cook, partially covered, until the mix is concentrated and thick, 10 to 15 minutes.

2. Pour in the water and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring. Add the salt, then reduce the heat to low and simmer, uncovered, for 15 minutes.

3. Carefully break the eggs into the simmering broth at places where you can see the bubbles rising to the surface. Cover the pot and poach the eggs until they are just firm, about 4 minutes.

Carefully ladle one egg into each of the bowls, then ladle the broth on top and serve immediately.

H
ONDURAS
“MAN” SOUP
S
OPA DE HOMBRE

Serves 6 to 8

Y
OU DON’T HAVE
to be an hombre, much less an inebriated one, to fall in love with this extraordinary seafood soup. It’s a tropical version of the American cioppini—beautiful to see, filled with chunky bits of seafood, tomato, peppers, and plantain, all in a piquant and sweet-tart coconutty broth. Heaven.

1. Scrub the hard-shell seafood clean, then let soak in cold water until you are ready to use it.

2. Prep the remaining ingredients as directed in the recipe list.

3. For the croutons, cut crusty bread into ½-inch slices and toast in a 350°F. oven for about 15 minutes.

1. Bring the fish stock to a boil in a large soup pot over medium heat. Stir in the onion, peppers, tomatoes with their juice, plantain, and salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes.

2. Stir in the tomato paste, then add all the fish and seafood. Cover tightly and stew over low heat for about 30 minutes.

3. Stir in the coconut milk, being careful not to break up the seafood. Cover the pot and cook gently just until the soup comes to a bubble (otherwise the coconut taste will degrade).

Ladle the soup into bowls. Top each portion with a crouton, sprinkle with parsley, and put a lime wedge on the side of each bowl.

H
UNGARY
“NIGHT OWL” SOUP
K
ORHELYLEVES

Serves 6 to 8

T
RADMONALLY SERVED IN
Budapest and throughout Hungary after all-night parties to fend off next-day hangovers, this hearty soup is awfully good for a cozy winter dinner as well. The potatoes are my idea—you may omit them if you want to be a purist.

1. Three hours ahead, soak the ham shank in cold water, changing the water several times. Drain and scrub the shank to remove any impurities.

2. Bring the 4 cups of water to a boil in a large soup pot over medium heat with the ham shank and let boil for at least 30 minutes. Let the meat cool in the broth, then cut it into small pieces, discarding
the bone. Set the meat aside and reserve 1 cup of the broth, discarding the rest.

3. Prep the remaining ingredients as directed in the recipe list.

1. Melt the butter in a large soup pot over medium-low heat, then add the onion and cook, stirring, until golden. Take the pan off the heat, add the paprika, and stir. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of water and the drained sauerkraut, and put back on the heat, stirring.

2. Pour in the reserved sauerkraut juice (add water to bring it up to 4 cups of liquid) and combined stocks, bring to a boil over high heat, and add the potatoes, bay leaf, pepper, and reserved meat pieces. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, partially covered, for 15 to 20 minutes, until the potatoes are tender. Remove the bay leaf.

3. Stir in the sour cream and diced sausage, and simmer for 5 minutes to heat through.

Ladle the soup into generous bowls and garnish with parsley.