Read A Family Guide To Keeping Chickens Online
Authors: Anne Perdeaux
Chickens can suffer from heart attacks, especially overweight heavy breeds. A purple comb is often an indication of circulatory problems. If a bird starts turning purple in the face, comb and wattles when handled, replace it gently on the ground immediately, as this is a warning of an imminent heart attack. Try to avoid handling the bird in future and keep it free from stress.
Chickens have only small lungs, which don’t expand like those of mammals. The air is pushed around their bodies through a series of air-sacs. It’s a very efficient breathing system but can allow airborne infections to penetrate deep into the body and bones. The air-sacs can be punctured by deep wounds and holding birds too tightly can result in suffocation.
When a chicken swallows food, it is stored in the crop at the base of the neck. After the chicken has eaten, the full crop can easily be felt.
There are a couple of possible problems that can occur in the crop:
This yeast infection can be caused by unsuitable or mouldy feed, a deficiency of vitamin A (found in green vegetables) or by oral antibiotics.
The bird may be sluggish but mostly you will notice the smell from its mouth. The vet should be consulted.
Apple cider vinegar in the drinking water one week each month is a preventative measure (20 ml of vinegar to a litre of water in a plastic drinker).
A chicken’s crop is quite large after it has eaten but should be empty by the morning. If it is still bulging and feels firm, there may be a blockage. This is often caused by the chicken eating long-stemmed grasses or swallowing something unsuitable like string. The mass will prevent the bird from eating and she will starve if left untreated.
There are various remedies used by poultry keepers to clear an impacted crop but the novice chicken owner should seek advice from the vet. Unfortunately the crop muscles may be weakened by the impaction, causing the situation to recur.
Keep grass short to help prevent this condition.
Pullets coming into lay and hens at the end of their laying lives are more likely to experience difficulties. Ex-battery hens are often susceptible, as are young pullets that have started laying too early.
An egg-bound hen is unable to push out her egg. Sometimes this happens when the egg is too big, but it can also be caused by a calcium deficiency – liquid calcium may help an egg-bound hen.
The hen will go in and out of the nest-box, look miserable and stop eating. You might see her straining to pass the egg and will possibly be able to feel it in her abdomen.
Separate the hen from the others. Make her as warm and comfortable as possible – a hot water bottle may help. If you need to check for the egg, use a well-washed lubricated finger or wear disposable gloves to avoid introducing infection.
Try smearing a little lubricating jelly around the inside of the vent and massaging the abdomen gently – you could use a warm flannel. This may be enough to do the trick but be careful the egg doesn’t break inside the hen.
Other ideas include sitting the hen in a bath of warm water for twenty minutes (don’t let it cool down) or holding her over a bowl of steaming water to warm the vent and abdomen. You could drape a towel over her rear end to concentrate the steam – make sure she’s not close enough for the steam to scald her.
If the hen still cannot pass the egg, it will have to be punctured to release the contents and every piece of shell removed. The sharp edges of shell could damage the oviduct and cause infection so at this stage you may wish to seek professional help.
Let the hen recover in a warm place, away from the flock. There may have been muscle damage, which could lead to a prolapse of the oviduct.
A prolapse is when the oviduct protrudes through the vent. Unfortunately other chickens will find this irresistible and if not spotted in time the hen may be killed by her companions.
A small prolapse can sometimes be pushed back in, using a clean (gloved) finger and some lubrication. If a large amount of tissue is protruding, the vet should be consulted and the hen will probably need antibiotics.
There is a possibility of the problem recurring when the next egg is laid. A diet of only grain may slow down egg production, giving the prolapse a chance to heal. There are implants available that stop egg-laying and it is even possible for a hen to be spayed, although this will be expensive and she might not survive.
It is usually kinder to cull a hen who continuously suffers from prolapse, as she will always be liable to painful attacks from the other chickens.
This occurs when an egg yolk goes into the abdomen instead of down the oviduct. It may be due to a damaged oviduct or the result of stress.
Sometimes one yolk can be dealt with by the body but an infection may set in, especially if several yolks descend into the abdomen. The bird will be in pain and dejected – the abdomen may be swollen. The condition is difficult to diagnose and likely to be fatal, although antibiotics may sometimes help if it is caught early enough.
Clean small cuts, and apply antiseptic spray. Separate the bird until the wound has healed. More extensive damage will need veterinary attention.
This is caused by an infected wound under the foot. It can be the result of a heavy bird jumping down from a high perch or because of a cut. A pus-filled swelling develops and the bird becomes lame. It may be possible to squeeze out the pus, in which case clean the wound and apply antiseptic. Cover with a dressing and keep the bird on dry bedding, changing the dressing frequently. Severe cases will need antibiotics for the infection, which can become serious if left untreated.
Wet bedding combined with mud and droppings can set like concrete around the feet and toes. Trying to pull this off will damage the foot. Soak with warm, soapy water to loosen it, clean and dry the feet – and replace the floor litter!
Breeds with large combs, especially cockerels, can sometimes suffer from frostbite. Good ventilation in the henhouse helps prevent this, but if the weather is particularly cold rub petroleum jelly into the combs and wattles each evening. If frostbite does occur, treat with antiseptic spray – bad cases may require the vet.