97 Orchard: An Edible History of Five Immigrant Families in One New York Tenement (35 page)

kosher food,
see
kashruth kosher dining room, Ellis Island, 135-140

kosher meat, 168-170

kosher poultry trade, 115-116

Kramer, Bertha, 97

kranzkuchen
(German coffee cake), recipe, 31

krauthobblers
(“cabbage-shavers”), xiii, 24

krupnik
(bean soup), recipe, 146-147

kuchen
(German cakes), 30

kugel, 107, 109, 156

La Guardia, Mayor, and pushcarts, 214

Labor Exchange, 53

landladies, boardinghouse, 69-70

landlord system in Ireland, 56-57

landlords:

biases against Italians, 192-193

profit from immigration, 5

landsmanschaften
(German social clubs), 22

lard, 111

latkes, 110, 111

Leavitt’s Café, 175

Lemcke, Gesine, 10-11, 13

Leonard, Leah, 87

letters, Irish immigrant, 51-52, 61

Little Hungary, 172-174

Little Italy:

grocery stores, 194

holiday displays, 204

regions of Italy in, 221-222

renovations in, 223

restaurants, 220-224

seasonal foods, 216-217

social clubs, 221

Lower East Side:

as marketplace, 2

as microcosm of American food revolution, xv

chicken market, 117

Civil War, 1

dairy restaurants, 177-180

density, 183

depopulation, 183-184

description, 20-21

ethnic groups, 2

food businesses, 2, 152, 180-181

immigrants, 2

knish parlors, 176-177

poor, 23

poultry farms, 114-117

pushcarts, 145

reformers in, 22-23

restaurants, 170-175

Romanian quarter, 171-172

Russian Jews in, 123-124

settlement houses, 160-165

smells, 23-24

typical dwellings, 1

Luchow’s, 40-41

lunch rooms:

German, 36-37

New York, 79

lunch stand, Ellis Island, 127, 134,

lunch, German, 8

Luska, Sidney,
see
Harland, Henry

Lustig’s Restaurant, 94-95

Lynch, Matthew, 78

macaroni, 218

MacManus, Seamus, 60

Maggie (comic strip character), 81

Maguire, John Francis, 66-67

Mangione, Jerre, 196, 207, 209

The Market Assistant
(Thomas De Voe), 17

The Market Book
(Thomas De Voe), 17

markets:

daily rhythm of, 17

descriptions of, 17-18

fish sold at, 17

fruit and vegetables sold at, 17

German, 2

Grand Street, 14

Hester Street, 106

landladies shopping at, 69-70

Lower Manhattan, 14-19, 85-86

poor conditions, 14

shoppers, 17

transportation of food to, 15

vast array of food, 14-15

wild game sold, 17

matzoh, 87

matzoh brei, 111

McCabe, James, 69-70

McCarthy, Mary, 49

McClellan, Mayor George B., 144

McDonald, Alice, 61

meals:

Baldizzi family, 199-200

Sicilian peasants, 207-208

meat consumption, as measure of wealth, 177

meat riot, 178-179

meat:

and Italian immigrants, 196-197

kosher, 96

preserved, 76-77

meeting halls, German, 42-43

mehlspeisen
(“flour foods”), 22

memories, food, 181

Mendelsohn, Moses, 96

menu:

Dolan’s Restaurant, 73

Ellis Island dining room, 128-130

Ellis Island kosher dining room, 137-138

Newsboys’ Lodging House, 79

school lunchrooms, 165-166

Hungarian cafés, 173

Metropolitan Board of Health, 114

Meyerberg, Mrs. (fictional character), 181

milk:

as wonder food, 130

lack of in Jewish diet, 149

Milwaukee, 9

“missing husbands,” Lower East Side, 104

“mock fish,” 109

“model flats,” 163-164

Moore children, 65-66

Moore family, xi

Moore, Bridget (Meehan), 48, 50-51, 65-66

Moore, Joseph, 48, 50-51, 52, 55, 65-66, 72, 74, 81

More, Louise B., 62-63

Moretti, Stefano, 218

Moretti’s, 218

Mulberry Street, pushcart market, 213-214

Murger, Henry, 38

National Consumer League, 202

nativism, United States, 192

New York Board of Health, 162

New York Evening Post
, 25-26

New York Herald
, 73

New-York Historical Society, 17

New York School Lunch Committee, 165

New York Sun
, 131, 219

New York Times
, 14, 23, 30, 135, 190, 220

New York Tribune
, 72, 166, 168, 203

New York:

as seen by Irish immigrants, 51

bakeries, 29-30

boardinghouses, 69

candy factories, 201-204

Christmas traditions, 79-80

delicatessens, 166-171

English culture, 48

entertainment districts, 39-40

influx of Irish immigrants, 48, 51-55

Italian restaurants, 218-224

nineteenth-century cuisine, 71-72

pigs, 113-114

popularity of German restaurants, 37

restaurants, 71-76

sugar industry, 201

New Yorkers:

and Italian food, 218-224

love of oysters, 100

visits to in Little Italy, 223-224

newsboys, 73, 79

Newsboys’ Lodging House, 79

97 Orchard Street:

and Glockner family, 6

and Gumpertz family, 84-85

and Rogarshevsky family, 141-142

and Baldizzi family, 99

depopulation, 183-184

description, 5-7

dinnertime at, 118-119

neighborhood, 13-14

kitchens, xii

plumbing, 184

privies, 7

view from roof, 20-21

noodles, 12-13, 21, 89

recipe, 13

Jewish, 106-107

Northern Italians,

New York, 184-185

restaurants, 218-220

Nussbaum, Kela, 122-123

O’Donovan, Jeremiah, 67-68

oatmeal cake, 60

oatmeal, 49, 60, 63

Orchard Street:

grocery stores, 13

meat boycott, 178-179

water pipes, 7

organ-grinders, 188, 189

Ortelsburg, East Prussia, 84, 93-94, 102

Our Lady of Mount Carmel, 205-206

oysters:

patties, 74-76

Jewish recipes, 101

Jews and, 99-101

New York, xiv, 74-75, 100

oyster stand, 75

Pale of Jewish settlement, 132-133

Palermo, 197-198

pancakes, German, recipe, 39

Parloa, Maria, 71

The Passing of a Great Race
(Madison Grant), 192

“Passover at Ellis Island,” 135

Passover, 135, 156

pasta, 194

pastide
(meat pie), 89

“patty man,” 74-75

peasants, Irish, 50, 58-59

peasants, Italy, 194-195

peddlers:

bread, 208-209

child, 148

fruit, 147-149

Jewish, 89, 143-143

Lower East Side, 142-144

nuts, 205

snails, 214

vegetable, 145, 147, 214-215

Pentecost Sunday, 25

peppers, Italian, 216-217

Perlman’s Rumanian Rathskellar, 172

Pfaff, Charley, 37-39

Pfaff’s restaurant, 37-39

pfankuchen
(German pancakes), 38-39

Philadelphia, 25

Phytophthora infestans
(potato blight), 48

pickle stands, 151

pickles:

Jewish love of, 150-151

recipe, 151-152

picnics, German 44-45

pie:

as American staple, xiv, 127

mince, 131

pig jowls, 82

pigs:

Europe, 111

Ireland, 57

New York, 113-114

pizza, 200

pizzarelli
(fried dough cakes), 206

plumbing, 97 Orchard Street, 7, 184

plums, 148

pogroms, 133

Posen, East Prussia, 87

potato blight, 48-49

potato kugel, 109

potato pancakes, 105-106

potato puffs, 110

potatoes:

arrival in Ireland, 56

German Jews and, 107-111

introduction to Europe, 107-108

Ireland, 48, 56-57

Irish immigrants and, 61, 62, 63

“laughing,” 60

on steamships, 49, 50

poultry, Lower East Side, 114-117

poverty:

immigrant, 50

Irish immigrant, 61

power of food, 200

Practical Homemaking
(Mabel Kittredge), 163

Praktisches Kochbuch
(Henriette Davidis), 9

Praktisches Kochbuch fur die Deutschen in Amerika
(Henriette Davidis), 9-10

Procter & Gamble, 118

Protose steak, 179

public health, and home candy factories, 202-204

public schools, cooking classes, 163

pudding, cheap, recipe, 63

pumpernickel, 2

Purim, 156

“pushcart evil,” 144-145

pushcart markets:

book stands, 158

dry goods, 158

Hester Street, 85-86, 106

child workers, 148

complaints, 144-145

Italian, 213-215

Lower East Side, 142-145

pickles, 151

quality of food, 145

uptown visitors, 142-143

war against, 214

race studies, and immigration, 192

racketeering, food, 231-232n

rag-pickers, 188-191, 191-192

Ratner’s, 179, 181

recipe:

challah, 157-158

cheap pudding, 63

Christmas
baccala
(salt codfish), 226

coffee cake, 30-31

cranberry strudel, 159

croccante
(almond brittle), 206-207

egg noodles, 13

eggplants in the oven, 217

faux foie gras, 116

fish hash, 71

gefilte fish, 92-93

German pancakes, 39

hasenpfeffer
(wild rabbit stew), 10-11

herring salad, 19-20

kranzkuchen
(coffee cake), 30-31

krupnik
(bean soup), 146-147

lentil soup, 122-123

oyster patties, 75-76

pickle, 151-152

sauerkraut, 26

spaghetti and meat balls, 224-225

spaghetti con aglio e olio, 211-212

spiced vinegar, 10

stewed fish, 86-87

stuffed cabbage, 140

stuffed pike, 91

veal with dried pear, 11-12

vegetarian chopped liver, 179-180

white bean soup, 122

zucchini frittata, 210-211

Reformed Judaism, 98

refrigeration, 77

Reisen, Avrom, 108-109

Report of the Council on Hygiene and Public Health of the Citizen’s Association of New York upon the Sanitary Conditions in the City
(Citizens’ Association), 114

restaurants:

German, 37-42

Hungarian, 172-174

Little Italy, 220-224

Lower East Side, 170-175