1,000 Indian Recipes (316 page)

Unfortunately, buffalo milk, from which
khoa
is traditionally made, is not readily available in the United States.
Khoa
made from homogenized and pasteurized milk, or even raw cow's milk, is simply not the same. So, I've created various ways to bring about a more authentic consistency to
khoa
in my American kitchen, with the addition of ricotta cheese, dry milk powder, and whipping cream (see
Decadent Carrot Halva with Evaporated Milk and Jaggery
, Step 3. Easily found in grocery stores, these substitute dairy products lend a texture and richness associated with buffalo milk
khoa
.

With a base of milk and many grains, vegetables, fruits, and nuts defining their character,
kheers, payasams
, and
payeshes
are all names for what is basically the same type of dessert: a soft, creamy pudding. They are found throughout India under different regional names and flavor accents—
kheer
in the north,
payasam
in the south, and
payesh
in the west.

Because these puddings are all made with milk that has been simmered over a long period of time, preparing them requires vigilance and patience. You have to frequently stir and scrape the pan to keep the milk from scalding.

Keep in mind that all
kheers, payasams
, and
payeshes
will thicken as they cool. If your chilled pudding seems too thick, just stir in some boiled milk, garnish once again, and serve.

For best results, use whole milk; lowfat milk can be substituted, but nonfat or skim milk will not. Do not use Silverstone- or Teflon-coated nonstick pans while making any milk-based desserts. The milk will burn, and a thin layer of brown skin will form on the bottom of the pan. As you stir, this skin breaks off and mixes into the milk, ruining the entire dessert.

Punjabi Rice Pudding

Punjabi Chaval ki Kheer

Makes 4 to 6 servings

Even though you can save time by making this
kheer
with pre-cooked rice, I strongly believe the best flavors come from the joint simmering of its two main ingredients—milk and basmati rice. For a spectacular visual effect, present this pudding in a silver serving dish and don't skip the garnish of silver leaves.

¹
⁄
₂
cup
Dessert Masala

¹
⁄
₂
cup
Blanched and Slivered Raw Almonds
(or store-bought)

¹
⁄
₄
teaspoon saffron threads

¹
⁄
₂
gallon whole milk

¹
⁄
₂
cup basmati rice, sorted and washed in 3 to 4 changes of water

¹
⁄
₂
cup sweetened condensed milk

¹
⁄
₂
teaspoon ground green cardamom seeds

2 drops rose essence

6 (4-inch) silver leaves (optional)

1.
Prepare the dessert masala and the almonds. In a small bowl, soak the saffron threads in
¹
⁄
₄
cup milk for about 30 minutes.

2.
Place the milk and the rice in a large, heavy wok or saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring and scraping the bottom and the sides of the wok often, until the rice is very soft and the milk is reduced by at least half, about 35 minutes. Stirring and scraping is crucial to prevent the milk from scalding and adding a burned flavor to the pudding.

3.
Mix in the almonds, condensed milk, cardamom seeds, and half the dessert masala. Continue to cook, stirring, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the rose essence, saffron and saffron-infused milk, and transfer to a serving dish. Let cool and garnish with the silver leaves and the remaining dessert masala. Refrigerate at least 4 hours and serve chilled.

South Indian Rice Pudding

Paal Payasam

Makes 4 to 6 servings

This south Indian version of rice pudding has far more milk than rice, and is called milk pudding, or
paalpayasam
. Because this dessert is very liquidy, it can even be served as a beverage.

Made on special occasions, especially birthdays (before cake became the standard),
payasam
is traditionally prepared the day of the event and can be served hot, warm, or at room temperature. Some Indians would consider it improper to serve cold
payasam
to guests, but I feel even the chilled version is lovely.

¹
⁄
₂
teaspoon saffron threads

¹
⁄
₂
gallon whole milk, plus up to 1 cup more, if needed

3 tablespoons long-grain white rice

¹
⁄
₃
cup sugar, or to taste

¹
⁄
₂
teaspoon ground green cardamom seeds

1.
In a small bowl, soak the saffron threads in
¹
⁄
₄
cup milk for about 30 minutes.

2.
Place the remaining milk in a large, heavy wok or saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low, add the rice and simmer, stirring and scraping the bottom and sides of the wok often, until the rice is very soft and the milk is reduced by at least half, about 35 minutes. Stirring and scraping is crucial to prevent the milk from scalding and adding a burned flavor to the pudding.

3.
Add the sugar, saffron, and saffron-infused milk and continue to simmer, 10 to 12 minutes. If you want a thicker payasam, continue simmering until you reach the desired consistency. For a thinner payasam, add up to a cup of milk to thin it down. Always bring it back to a boil if you add more milk. Transfer to a serving dish, top with cardamom seeds, and serve.

Bengali Rice Pudding

Payesh or Payes

Makes 4 to 6 servings

This Bengali interpretation of rice pudding uses a special Bengali short-grain rice called
govindabhog
(meaning food for God; Govind is also the name for Lord Krishna). This rice is hard to come by in America, so you can substitute any commonly available short-grain rice. Try making it with arborio, or Asian short-grain rice.

¹
⁄
₄
cup short-grain rice, sorted and washed in 3 to 4 changes of water

¹
⁄
₂
gallon whole milk

2 bay leaves

1
¹
⁄
₂
-inch stick cinnamon

5 to 7 green cardamom pods, crushed lightly to break the skin

¹
⁄
₄
cup brown sugar or grated jaggery (gur)

¹
⁄
₂
cup coarsely chopped raw almonds

1.
Place the rice, milk, bay leaves, cinnamon, and cardamom pods in a large, heavy wok or saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring and scraping the bottom and sides of the pan often, until the rice is very soft and the milk is reduced by at least half, about 35 minutes. Stirring and scraping is crucial to prevent the milk from scalding and adding a burned flavor to the pudding.

2.
Add the brown sugar and almost all the almonds, saving some for garnish, and continue to cook until the pudding is thick and creamy. Transfer to a serving dish, garnish with the reserved almonds, and serve warm or at room temperature.

Parsi Pressed Rice Flakes Pudding

Poha ki Kheer

Makes 4 to 6 servings

This is a very basic
kheer
that is quick to make and tastes as delicious warm as it does chilled. If you're serving it warm, stick to the 3 basic ingredients: rice, milk, and sugar. If you serve it as a chilled dessert, dress it with nuts and fragrant spices.
Poha
are pressed rice flakes, available at Indian markets.

1 cup pressed rice flakes (poha), sorted

4 cups whole milk

1 to 2 tablespoons sugar, or to taste

2 tablespoons coarsely ground raw cashews or almonds

¹
⁄
₄
teaspoon ground green cardamom seeds

1 drop rose essence

1.
Place the pressed rice flakes in a fine-mesh strainer and rinse under running water. Set aside to drain until needed.

2.
Place the milk in a large, heavy wok or saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring and scraping the sides and bottom of the wok often, until the milk is reduced by about G, 10 to 12 minutes.

3.
Add the drained pressed rice and simmer, stirring and scraping the sides of the wok, until the kheer is thick and creamy, 3 to 5 minutes.

4.
Add the sugar, nuts, cardamom, and rose essence and cook until the pudding reaches the desired consistency, keeping in mind that it will thicken as it cools. Transfer to a serving dish and serve.

Punjabi Semolina Pudding

Sooji ki Kheer

Makes 4 to 6 servings

This is a quick-cooking
kheer
, because the roasted semolina instantly thickens the milk and gives it a smooth consistency almost as soon as it is added. This
kheer
is considered light and easy to digest and is often served in generous portions first thing in the morning.