1,000 Indian Recipes (306 page)

Roti
is also used generally to refer to any flat (unleavened) breads, such as
chapatis
and
paranthas
. Then there is a whole set of unique and distinctive flatbreads for which the term
roti
simply signifies bread. These breads are named after the flours or the predominant seasonings and vegetables, such as
makkikiroti
(corn bread) or
methi ki roti
(fenugreek bread).

Baati Rolls

Baaties
are delicious breads unique to Rajasthan in the northwest. Being part of the Indian desert area and faced with a constant shortage of fresh produce, the Rajasthani people depend heavily upon different whole-grain flours,
dals
(legumes) and other dried foodstuffs that have a long shelf life. And for them to enjoy the same foods day after day, they have to be creative and inventive.
Baati
bread rolls are a delicious part of that necessity and creativity.

Made mainly with whole-wheat flour and occasionally with chickpea flour,
baati
rolls take many forms—plain, plain with spices, stuffed, then steamed or boiled and then deep-fried, baked in an oven, or grilled over hot coals. No matter how they are cooked, according to tradition, they are then soaked in a melted
ghee
bath for at least 5 minutes—a process that both Pushpa Khatod, my son-in-law's mother (who graciously gave me my
baati
education), and I, do not follow. They should, however, at least be basted.

Punjabi Griddle-Fried White Corn Breads

Sufaid Makki ki Roti

Makes 8 to 10 breads

This flatbread is generally made with yellow corn flour, perhaps because most of the corn grown in the Punjab is yellow. In America, I use the Mexican white corn flour, which I find results in really sweet and fragrant breads. You could use whichever of the two you prefer (or have in your pantry). Remember to mix in some whole-wheat flour, which binds this easily breakable
roti (
bread).

1
¹
⁄
₄
cups white corn flour

¹
⁄
₄
cup stone-ground durum whole-wheat flour

³
⁄
₄
to 1 cup hot water (only as hot as your hands can tolerate)

3 to 4 tablespoons corn oil or melted ghee, for basting

1.
In a bowl, mix together the flours, then add enough hot water to make a semi-soft dough that does not stick to your fingers. (Coat your fingers with some oil if it does stick.) This dough does not require resting time, nor should it be kneaded.

2.
With lightly oiled clean hands, divide the dough equally into 8 to 10 balls and cover with foil to prevent drying. Working with each ball separately, place between 2 sheets of wax paper, aluminum foil, or plastic wrap and gently press with your fingertips or a rolling pin to spread it into a 5- to 6-inch circle. If the dough breaks, pinch it together to seal.

3.
Heat the tava on medium heat (do not make it too hot—these breads are thicker than the whole-wheat ones and need to cook longer), baste the tava lightly with oil (or ghee), then carefully put the bread on it. Cook until the bottom is flecked with golden dots, about 1 minute, and turn it over.

4.
When the other side is golden, flip it once again. Then baste the top with
¹
⁄
₂
teaspoon oil (or ghee), put that side down onto the tava, and fry until crisp, a few seconds. Similarly, baste and fry the other side until crisp. Repeat with all the other breads. Transfer to a serving plate and serve as hot as possible, topped with a dollop of whipped butter, if you wish.

Variation:
Along with the flour in Step 1, also mix in about 1 cup finely chopped fresh fenugreek (or radish) leaves,
¹
⁄
₂
cup cilantro, and salt and black pepper to taste.

Griddle-Fried Chickpea Flour Breads

Missi Roti

Makes 8 to 10 breads

A classic in their own right,
missiroti
, as all chickpea flour breads are called, are quite a culinary delight. On its own, chickpea flour lacks the gluten and elasticity needed to roll out dough. It is generally combined with whole-wheat or all-purpose flour. The following is the most basic recipe for
missi roti
breads.

1 cup chickpea flour (besan)

¹
⁄
₂
cup stone-ground durum whole-wheat flour

¹
⁄
₄
teaspoon salt, or to taste

¹
⁄
₂
teaspoon hot red pepper flakes, or to taste

¹
⁄
₄
teaspoon ajwain seeds, coarsely ground

¹
⁄
₂
cup nonfat plain yogurt, or as needed

1 to 2 tablespoons water, as needed

1.
In a large bowl, mix together the chickpea and whole-wheat flours with clean fingers. Add the salt, red pepper flakes, and ajwain seeds and mix again. Add the yogurt and mix with your fingers, in round circular motions, until it gathers into a soft, pliable ball that does not stick to your fingers. (Use the water only if you need to.)

2.
Knead for about a minute, pressing your knuckles lightly into the dough, spreading the dough outward, then gathering the ends together toward the center with your fingers. Push down the center, then repeat pressing and gathering a few times until you have a soft and pliable dough that does not stick to your fingers. If, while kneading, the dough sticks to your hands, scrape off the dough, put some oil on them, and continue kneading. Cover with plastic wrap or the lid of the bowl and let the dough rest at least 1 and up to 4 hours at room temperature. (This allows the wheat gluten to develop.)

3.
To roll and fry the breads, with lightly oiled hands, divide the dough equally into 8 to 10 balls and cover with foil to prevent drying. Then follow the directions for
Basic Griddle-Fried Breads
, starting from Step 4.

Variation:
Along with the spices in Step 1, add a cup or 2 of finely chopped fresh spinach and about
¹
⁄
₂
cup minced onion.

Griddle-Fried Leavened Breads

Khameeri Roti

Makes 8 to 10 breads

A leavened bread, this whole-wheat
roti
is light and spongier than most. It's quite possible that this bread came about during hot Indian summers, when any leftover dough, if not carefully watched, fermented very quickly. Today, it is considered a specialty.

No matter how thin you roll out the dough, the leavening will always make a somewhat soft, puffy, spongy, textured bread. This bread travels well, which makes it a perfect lunch-box or picnic treat with dry-cooked vegetables, such as
Mashed Fire-Roasted Eggplant
. Use the bread as a wrap or serve it on the side. For a healthier version, cook the breads as you would
chapatis
(
Whole-Wheat Griddle Breads
).

1 teaspoon active dry yeast

1 teaspoon sugar

¹
⁄
₄
cup warm water (about 130°F)

1
¹
⁄
₂
cups stone-ground durum whole-wheat flour

¹
⁄
₂
teaspoon salt, or to taste

¹
⁄
₂
teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¹
⁄
₄
cup nonfat plain yogurt

1.
In a small bowl, mix the yeast and sugar in the water and set aside until frothy, 5 to 7 minutes.

2.
Place the flour, salt, and black pepper in a food processor and process until mixed. With the motor running, slowly add the yeast mixture, then the yogurt, through the feeder tube until the flour gathers into a ball and the sides of the work bowl look clean, about 1 minute. (If the dough seems too sticky, add some more dry flour through the feeder tube.) Transfer to a large bowl, cover with plastic wrap or the lid of the bowl, and place in a warm draft-free spot until it doubles in volume, at least 4 and up to 12 hours.

3.
With lightly oiled hands, divide the dough equally into 8 to 10 balls and cover with foil to prevent drying.

4.
Preheat a tava or griddle over medium-high heat until a sprinkling of flour immediately turns dark brown. Wipe off the flour and proceed. While the tava is heating, working with each ball separately, press into a flat disc in a bowl or pie tin with dry flour, and coat completely with flour. With a rolling pin, on a cutting board or any clean flat work surface, roll each disc into 6- to 7-inch circles.

5.
Cook the breads according to directions for
Basic Griddle-Fried Breads
, starting from Step 5.

Griddle-Cooked Flour and Potato Bread for Spicy Wraps