Ugly Beauty (34 page)

L’Auréole, 40, 53

Lawrence, D. H., 35–36

Layani, Dr., 117

Lazareff, Pierre and Hélène, 241

lead poisoning, 216

“Lebensborn” project, 106

Légion d’Honneur, 49, 56, 252

Lehman Brothers, 34–37, 64, 138, 146

Leibovitz, Annie, 222

Lemaigre-Dubreuil, Jacques, 94

Le Pen, Jean-Marie, 132
n

Leverson, Rachel (Madame Rachel), 197–98, 201

Levy, Professor, 118

Lewis, John Spedan, 70
n

Life
(magazine), 8

Ligue Contre Antisémitisme, 121, 158–59, 181

lipstick, 22, 32, 41, 106

symbolism of, 26, 35, 61, 104, 105, 201, 225

“lipstick effect,” 35

List, Emmy, 16, 23

London, 18–25, 26, 28

L’Oréal, xi, 52, 59, 67, 130–32, 146–50, 207

advertising and, 53, 60, 61–62, 107–8, 194, 210, 217, 224, 229

Arab blacklisting of, 151–56, 174, 180–81, 182

Bettencourt resignation from, 172

Bettencourt-Schueller and, 172, 228, 231, 234, 252

financial success of, 62, 63, 84, 153–54, 190

founding of, 40, 50–51

German subsidiary of, 181–91

growth of, 54–55, 56, 61–62

hair dye and, 40, 42, 48–49, 61–63, 65–66

Helena Rubinstein takeover by, xii, 40, 146–51

Meyers and, 172, 247

Mitterrand and, 136–37

multinational expansion of, 150–51, 193–94, 227–28

Nazi past and, 109–15, 118–19, 121, 153–91, 192, 250, 253

Nestlé and, 152, 247

Owen-Jones as CEO of, 149–50, 166, 181–82

political scandal and, 250–51

private ownership of, 75

revenues of, 194

rue Royale headquarters of, 63, 112

Schueller’s successor and, 126, 138

settlement with U.S. government of, 182

Waitzfelder case against 6, 189–90

women’s role at, 228

World War II profits of, 90

L’Oréal Blanc, 61–62

Lumière, Auguste, 57

LVF (Légion de Volontaires Françaises), 159, 160

Lycée Condorcet, 45, 57

Lyon University, 118

Macdonald, Helen, 10

Madoff, Bernie, 232

Maginot Line, 84–85

Magnon de la Villehuchet, René-Thierry, 232

Maistre, Patrice de, 249–50, 252, 253

makeup.
See
cosmetics; lipstick

Mandel, Georges, 157, 179, 181

Mangeot, Georges, 111

Marnais, Frédérick (Mitterrand pseud.), 136–37

Massé, Mme., 101

Maurras, Charles, 92

Mein Kampf
(Hitler), 78–79

Meir, Golda, 141–42, 169

Meisel, Steven, 222

Melbourne, 2, 9, 10–15, 18

men

cosmetic enhancement and, 207, 211–12, 220–21, 228–29

as cosmetic surgeons, 225–26, 228

toiletries for, 104–5

Mendeleyev periodic table, 46

Mendès-France, Pierre, 164, 169

Meyer, M., 118–19

Meyers, Jean-Pierre, 172, 247

Michelin, Pierre, 94, 95

Milice, 111
n
, 166
n

Mitterrand, Danielle, 136, 137

Mitterrand, François, 128, 161, 241

politics and, 151, 153, 164, 165, 174–77

Votre Beauté
column and, 136–37, 168
n

World War II and, 129, 135, 136, 170

Mitterrand, Marie-Josephine, 175

Mitterrand, Robert, 175

monkey-gland extracts, 32–33

Monsavon, 44, 59–60, 107, 111, 112

Dalle employment by, 129–31

World War II profits of, 90

Morris, William, 74

Moulin, Jean, 134, 170

Mouvements Unis de la Résistance, 121

MSR (Mouvement Sociale Révolutionnaire), 92, 95–102, 133–34, 158–59, 161, 175, 179

Jewish property takeover by, 120–21, 155

Schueller link with, 97–100, 101–2, 112, 114, 121, 122, 133

Mussolini, Benito, 79, 95, 128

Nadelman, Elie, 1

National Council of Liberation, 168

Natural Sea Beauty, 182

Navachine, Dmitri, 95, 134

Nazi Propagandastaffel, 165

Nazis, 114, 128, 141, 159, 178

feminine beauty ideal of, 102, 106

MSN and, 98

utopians and, 80, 86, 87, 103

See also
anti-Semitism; collaboration; Occupation

Neochrome, 91

Nestlé, 149, 151–52, 247

New Yorker
, 33, 222–23

Nicholls, Jay, 208, 223

Noailles, Marie-Laure de, 242, 243

Occupation, xii, 85–123

French businesses and, 90–92, 106–9

French right-wing and, 92, 96–100, 165–66, 176

Jewish plight under, 117–21, 134
n
, 155, 158–59, 163, 179, 185

reactions to, 96–97, 113–14

Relève and, 110–11, 113, 115, 118, 122

Schueller broadcasts/articles and, 102–4, 122, 123

See also
collaboration; Resistance; Vichy regime

O’Higgins, Patrick, 7, 25, 35, 64, 141, 196

Rubinstein relationship with, 237–40, 241

104 Network, 127, 134–35, 136, 138, 164, 175

Operation Rocher, 181

Oradour-sur-Glâne massacre (1944), 111

OSARN.
See
Cagoule, La

OSS, 169, 170

Ovid, 2

Owen-Jones, Lindsay, 149–50, 156, 164, 172, 176, 177, 193, 228, 245

L’Oréal scandals and, 181–82, 189–91, 192

paint manufacture, 58, 91

Palmolive soap, 59

Paravision, 154–55, 156

Paris, 16–28, 31–32, 39

Passé composé
,
Le
(Banier), 242–43

Paul, Saint, 2–3, 199

Pays Libre
(journal), 134

Péan, Pierre, 134, 165

Pearl Harbor attack, 114

permanent wave, 62

Pétain, Marshal Henri, 85, 96, 99, 114, 117, 119, 132, 136, 172, 175

petrodollars, 151

Peugeot, 58

Pharmacie Centrale de France, 46–47, 48, 50

photography

Banier and, 240, 241, 242, 245
n

beauty industry and, 217–20, 223, 224

celluloid film stock and, 58

Photoshop, 222–25

Picabia, Francis, 31–32

Picasso, Pablo, 25, 28, 245

Pinto, Freida, 217, 224

plastics, 57, 59

plastic surgery.
See
cosmetic surgery

Plavic Film, 57

Plenitude antiwrinkle cream, 182

Poland, 4–5, 15–16

Polignac, Marie-Blanche de, 138

Polish Red Cross, 141

Pompidou, Georges, 164–65, 195

Pond’s, 41, 219

Pope, Alexander, 2

Popular Front, 93

postiche, 53–54

Potton, Ariste, 86

Poujade, Pierre, 132
n
, 251

powder, 22, 41

Procasa, 147, 162

Propper, Gad, 163

Protect and Perfect Serum, 202, 229

Proust, Marcel, 25

racism, 80–81, 216–17, 224.
See also
anti-Semitism

radio advertising, 58–59, 60

Radio Cité, 58, 60

Ranelagh, Lord, 197–98

Ray, Man, 36

Reagan, Ronald, 229

recessions.
See
economic downturns

reconstructive surgery, 204

Relève.
See
STO

Renault (co.), 58

Renault, Louis, 94

Resistance, 85, 96, 114–15, 118, 121–22, 134–37, 164

former collaborators and, 123, 159, 160–61, 165, 168, 169, 170, 174, 175, 177

French Communists and, 115, 121

Frydman and, 154, 155–56

Resistance Medal, 164, 169, 170

retinol, 202–3

Revlon, 8, 146, 227

Révolution de l’économie
,
La
(Schueller), 76
n
, 87, 90, 106, 117, 122, 123, 126

Révolution Nationale
(RNP magazine), 101, 103, 115

Revson, Charles, 8, 146

Rio de Janeiro, 187–88

Ripolin paints, 94

RNP (Rassemblement Nationale Populaire), 100–101, 115, 122

Rocque, Colonel de la, 92, 93

Roddick, Anita, 10
n

Roederer, Madame, 116

Rohmer, Eric, 241

Roosevelt, Franklin D., 79, 104

Rosenfelder, Edith, 185, 186, 187–90, 191, 194

Rosenfelder, Fritz, 184–87

Rosenfelder, Karl, 186, 187, 188

Rosselli, Carlo and Nello, 95, 175

Rothschild, Henri de, 59, 74

Rothschild, Philippe de, 59

rouge, 22

Roux, Annette, 228

Rubinstein, Artur, 220

Rubinstein, Helena, xi, 1–37

advertising and, 19, 28, 34, 40, 218, 220

age of, 3, 16, 28, 144

American salons of, 1, 25, 33–34, 140

art and, 25, 28–29, 235

basis of success of, 12–14, 40–42, 196–97

belief in value of work of, 231, 234

business reputation of, 33, 248

business sale and buyback by, 34–35, 36–37

chaotic style of, 63–64

Corrèze and, 180

cosmetics use and, 200, 221, 225, 229, 253

death of, 144, 145, 147, 148, 231

divorce of, 138

early life and career of, 2, 4–18, 24–25

family business and, 126, 146–47, 148, 232

first marriage of, 19–21, 64 (
see also
Titus, Edward)

first salons of, 26–28, 30–31, 39

hairstyle trademark of, 24

jewels of, 21, 235

Jewish background of, xii, 4, 139–42, 180, 181

London and, 21–23, 25, 26, 28

marketing skills of, 30–31, 60, 196

O’Higgins friendship with, 237–40, 241

personal appearance of, 7, 20, 24, 28–29

personal traits of, 6–7, 15, 28, 34, 64, 236, 237, 248

photographic image of, 218–19, 220

robbery of, 144–45

Schueller compared with, xi–xii, 40, 42, 63–64, 124, 195–96, 201, 253

second marriage of, 138–39, 237

sisters of, 17, 24, 25, 26, 27–28, 31, 35, 140, 141

sons of, 23–24, 31, 147, 148, 237

travel and, 15–16, 19, 24, 64, 145, 203

wealth of, 12–13, 18, 23, 36, 145–46, 231, 236

will and estate of, 146, 239–40

World War II and, 64, 104–5, 140–42, 228–29

See also
Helena Rubinstein, Inc.

Rubinstein, Mala (great-niece), 147, 148

Rubinstein, Naftali Herzl (father), 4, 64, 234

Ruhlmann (furniture designer), 74

Russia.
See
Soviet Union

Sachs, Maurice, 244

Sadoul, Jacques, 46–47, 57–58, 67, 121

Salzmann, Charles, 175

Sanofi-Aventis, 207

Sarkozy, Nicolas, 245, 249

Scapini, Georges, 116–17

Schatzkes, M., 119

Schmilinsky, Dr., 91–92

Scholt-Klink, Gertrud, 106

Schueller, Amélie (mother), 43, 45, 49

Schueller, Annie (second wife), 117–18, 135

Schueller, Berthe (first wife), 51, 55, 56, 233–34

death of, 117, 232–33

Schueller, Charles (father), 43, 45

Schueller, Eugène, xi–xii, 19–20, 39–81, 83–138

advertising jingles and, 58–59, 60

authoritarianism of, 79–80, 86, 89, 251

background and early life of, 42–43, 44–47, 110

basis of success of, 42, 90–92, 195–96

Bettencourt as son-in-law of, 132, 135

business successor of, 126–28, 130–32

chemistry background of, 40, 42, 46–47, 65

collaboration trials of (
see
under
collaboration)

daily routine of, 43–44, 49, 52

daughter of (
see
Bettencourt-Schueller, Liliane)

death of, 132

economic-social theories of, 65–78, 86, 89–90, 98–100, 103, 194, 253

education and, 43, 45, 46, 66–68, 196

first business ventures of, 44, 56–63, 65

Joliot-Curie friendship and, 46, 47, 115, 116–18

lifestyle of, 52–55, 84, 233

marriages of, 51, 117, 233–34

personal traits of, 51, 65, 233

physical appearance of, 53, 83–84

politics of, 77–80, 86–87, 89, 92–100, 102, 112, 132
n
, 253

risk-taking and, 75, 126, 253

Rubinstein compared with, xi–xii, 40, 42, 63–64, 124, 195–96, 201

view of women of, 48, 72–76, 106–8, 117, 126, 229, 247–48, 252–53

World War I service of, 49, 55–56, 67

See also
L’Oréal

Schueller et Sperry, 54–55

Seemuller, John, 146, 147

Seignobos, Charles, 47

self-confidence, 200, 209, 212, 213–15, 218, 224, 248

September Issue
,
The
(film), 221–22

Servant, Guy, 160

Servant, Patrice, 160

Service du Travail Obligatoire.
See
STO

Shepherd, Luke, 206, 209

Shoop, Max, 170

Silberfield, Helena, 31

Sitwell, Edith, 236

Skin Deep
(Consumer Research), 41–42, 48, 62, 194
n
, 202, 210

soap, 44, 59–60, 90, 107, 129, 130
See also
Monsavon

Society of French Soapmakers, 129

Solidarité Française, 80, 93

Sorbonne, 46, 47, 128

Soulès, Georges, 98, 100, 101, 134

Soutine, Chaim, 243

Soviet Union, 57–58, 67, 80

Nazi invasion of, 114, 159

Spain, 147, 162, 176, 180

Sperry (accountant), 54–55

Stalin, Joseph, 58, 79

Stewart, Martha, 10
n

STO (Service du Travail Obligatoire), 110, 111, 113, 115, 118, 122

Sutherland, Graham, 28–29

Talmadge, Constance, 219–20

Talmud, 3

taxes, 75, 84, 103, 250, 251

Tchelitchew, Pavel, 28

Terre Francaise
,
La
(magazine), 129, 165–69, 172

Times
of London, 198–99

Titus, Edward, 14, 17–20, 23, 24, 26, 31–32, 34–37, 64, 237

divorce from Rubinstein, 138

publishing success of, 35–36

Titus, Horace, 23–24, 31, 148, 237, 238

Titus, Roy, 23–24, 31, 147, 148, 237

Tondu, André, 183, 187, 189

Turati, Filippo, 95

Ulla (Swedish masseuse), 25–26