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Authors: Jennifer Malott Kotylo

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Southern (or Massaman) Curry Paste

6–8 large dried red chilies (often called California chilies), soaked in hot water for 5 minutes and drained

2 tablespoons coriander seeds, toasted

2 teaspoons cumin seeds, toasted

½ teaspoon cardamom seeds, toasted

2 whole cloves

¼ teaspoon whole black peppercorns

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon shrimp paste (optional)

1 stalk lemongrass, tough outer leaves removed and discarded, inner core finely chopped

1 (1-inch) piece ginger, peeled and minced

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon lime peel

2 teaspoons brown sugar

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

3 tablespoons Tamarind Concentrate (see recipe on page 18)

3 tablespoons water

  1. Place all ingredients in a food processor and blend until smooth.
  2. Transfer to a small saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat. Reduce heat to low and cook, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes.
  3. Stir in 1 cup of water and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer 30 minutes.
The Chili Infusion

Chilies are not indigenous to Asia. They arrived in Thailand from South America with the Portuguese traders and missionaries. Today, the Thai people eat more chilies on the average per person than any other country in the world
.

Yields approx. 1 cup

Massaman is the Thai word for “Muslim.” The sweet spices featured in this paste were brought to the Thai peninsula from the West by the Muslims.

Northern (or Jungle) Curry Paste

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

12 serrano chilies, seeded and chopped

6–8 Thai bird chilies, seeded and chopped

1 tablespoon shrimp paste

1 stalk lemongrass, tough outer leaves removed and discarded, inner core minced

1 (3-inch) piece ginger, peeled and chopped

4 shallots, chopped

1 cup chopped basil

½ cup chopped mint

¼ cup chopped chives

¼ cup chopped arugula

  1. In a medium-sized sauté pan, heat the oil on medium. Add shrimp paste, lemongrass, ginger, and shallots, and sauté until shallots begin to turn translucent and the mixture is very fragrant.
  2. Transfer the mixture to a food processor and process until adding 1 or 2 tablespoons of water to help with the grinding.
  3. Add the remaining ingredients and more water if necessary to process until coarsely blended.
Arugula

Arugula is a specialty green with a peppery, somewhat bitter taste. Although we Westerners associate it with Italian cuisine, it was originally cultivated in Western Asia. If you can't find it (check in the herb section), you can substitute spinach in this recipe, although with a slightly less flavorful result.

Yields approx. 2 cups

This curry has the look of a pesto. In fact, you can use it in a similar manner, tossing a tablespoon or so to taste with hot pasta.

Chili Tamarind Paste

½ cup dried shrimp

1¾ cups vegetable oil, divided

cup garlic

1 cup sliced shallots

12 small Thai chilies or

6 serrano chilies

3 tablespoons Tamarind Concentrate (see recipe on page 18)

3 tablespoons brown sugar

1 tablespoon fish sauce

  1. Place the dried shrimp in a small bowl. Cover the shrimp stir briefly, and drain; set aside.
  2. Pour 1½ cups of the vegetable oil in a medium-sized saucepan. the oil to approximately 360 degrees over medium-high heat.
  3. Add the garlic and fry until golden brown. Using a slotted transfer the garlic to a bowl lined with paper towels.
  4. Add the shallots to the saucepan and fry for 2 to 3 minutes; the shallots to the bowl with the garlic.
  5. Fry the reserved shrimp in the saucepan for 2 minutes; the bowl.
  6. Fry the chilies until they become brittle, about 30 seconds; them to the bowl. (Allow oil to cool to room temperature discarding.)
  7. Combine the fried ingredients, the remaining oil, and the a food processor; process to form a smooth paste.
  8. Place the paste in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the sugar and fish sauce, and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes.
  9. Allow the paste to return to room temperature before placing in an airtight container.
Yields approx. 3 cups

This paste is a study of contrasts. The searingly hot Thai chilies are balanced by the sweetness of the tamarind and brown sugar and the saltiness of the dried shrimp and fish sauce.

Yellow Bean Sauce

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 medium to large onion, minced

2 serrano chilies, seeded and chopped

1 (½-inch) piece ginger, peeled and chopped

1 teaspoon ground coriander

4 tablespoons fermented yellow beans (fermented soy beans)

2 tablespoons lime juice

2 tablespoons water

  1. In a medium-sized sauté pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and chilies, and sauté until the onion becomes translucent. Stir in the ginger and coriander, and continue to cook for 30 seconds.
  2. Add the beans, lime juice, and water, and simmer over low heat for 10 minutes.
  3. Transfer the mixture to a blender and process until smooth.
Yields approx. 1 cup

This bean sauce is often used in Thai recipes to add depth, not only of flavor but also of texture.

Minty Tamarind Paste

1 bunch mint leaves

1 bunch cilantro leaves

¼ cup peanuts

½ cup Tamarind Concentrate (see recipe on page 18)

4–5 Thai bird peppers or 2 serrano chilies, seeded and chopped

Place all the ingredients in a food processor and blend to form a paste.

Yields approx. 2 cups

This is a perfect way to use a lot of those extra herbs growing in your garden — to make a curry paste bursting with the tastes of summer.

Black Bean Paste

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 medium to large onion, minced

2 jalapeños, seeded and chopped

2 cloves garlic, chopped

3 green onions, trimmed and sliced

4 tablespoons canned black beans or black soy beans

1 teaspoon brown sugar

1 tablespoon fish sauce

2 teaspoons lime juice

  1. In a medium-sized sauté pan, heat the oil over medium-the onions, jalapeños, garlic, and green onions, and sauté onion becomes translucent.
  2. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the sautéed vegetables to processor or blender (set aside the oil in the sauté pan). remaining ingredients and process briefly to create a not-paste.
  3. Reheat the reserved oil in the sauté pan. Transfer the paste and heat for 5 minutes, stirring constantly. If the paste seems thick, add a bit of water.
Marinating Safely

When you marinate foods, you should always do it in the refrigerator to reduce the possibility of bacteria growth unless otherwise directed in a recipe
.

Yields approx. ½ cup

Fermented soybeans remind me of garbanzo beans. When they are cooked and ground they have a somewhat mealy texture and the fermentation process yields a slightly sharp, vinegary taste.

Thai Marinade — 1

2 tablespoons fish sauce

¼ cup fresh lime juice

½ cup sesame oil

1 large stalk lemongrass, crushed

¼ teaspoon hot pepper flakes

2 tablespoons chopped peanuts

3 cloves garlic, minced

¼ cup chopped cilantro

1 tablespoon brown sugar

Combine the fish sauce and lime juice in a small bowl. Slowly whisk in the sesame oil, then stir in remaining ingredients.

Yields approx. 1 cup

This marinade contains the classic ingredients of Thai cuisine: fish sauce, lime juice, peanuts, chili peppers, and lemongrass. It works well with chicken, pork, or beef.

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