Sugar Cube (30 page)

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If you ever find yourself in Portland, you must pay a visit to Kir. It’s like walking into a friend’s tiny, cozy little home. Pull up a chair and drink some thoughtfully chosen wine, eat some lovingly crafted food, and hopefully strike up a conversation with someone new. The place is so small that getting to know your neighbor is highly likely—and what makes the whole experience even more memorable.

Some kids grew up with Hershey’s, but I grew up with Ovaltine. I think it was supposed to be somewhat nutritious, which is why my mom had it around, but all I cared about was that yummy malty flavor. I remember one cold Chicago winter when I was a teenager, my friends and I went outside to “go for a walk,” but we were really out getting high. When we got back, my mom was standing in the doorway with a tray of steaming mugs of Ovaltine and cookies. It was a genuine Hallmark moment, except for the getting high part. I can still see my friends looking at me with their glazed eyes and telling me I had the best mom in the world. They were right, which made me feel like a total shit. If only she knew what I was doing out there! I’ve carried on her loving tradition at the cart, updating it with nuances like high-quality milk chocolate, fresh whipped cream, and smoked sea salt. It’s a delicious, warming treat—even when you’re not cross-eyed!
MAKES 1 SERVING

• 1
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  cups whole milk
  
• 2 heaping tablespoons original Ovaltine powder
  
• 2 heaping tablespoons grated high-quality milk chocolate (I like to use the Felchlin Maracaibo 49 percent milk chocolate.)
  
• Fresh Whoop
  for garnish
  
• Smoked sea salt for garnish (I use Guava-wood–smoked sea salt from Hawaii)
  

• IN A SMALL NONREACTIVE SAUCEPAN
  , heat the milk over medium heat until steaming. Stir in the Ovaltine and chocolate until thoroughly blended.
  
• POUR INTO A LARGE MUG
  and top with whoop and a light sprinkle of smoked sea salt.
  

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Milk can have nuances, both good and bad, depending on the brand, what it’s packaged in, how long it’s been around, what the cows ate, and so on. I say if you’re going to drink a big mug of milk, make it the good stuff. Look for something farm fresh from a local producer.

Whenever I couldn’t sleep, had a bad dream, or just needed a little TLC, my mom would make me honey milk. It’s exactly what it sounds like—warm milk sweetened with a little honey—and it’s just the thing to soothe a worried soul. Turns out I’m not the only one who grew up sipping this comforting blend. I put it on my cart menu and ended up bonding with dozens of customers who grew up with honey milk, too. My version uses rich, full-fat, farm-fresh milk and local meadowfoam honey, which has an amazing vanilla-like flavor with marshmallowy undertones. I top it with fresh whipped cream and a sprinkle of fleur de sel (of course), and dole it out to a steady stream of chilly, rain-soaked Portlanders looking for a steaming mug of comfort.
MAKES 1 SERVING

• 1
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  cups whole milk
  
• 2 tablespoons meadowfoam honey or other flavorful honey, such as lavender
  
• Fresh Whoop
  for garnish
  
• Fleur de sel for garnish
  

• IN A SMALL NONREACTIVE SAUCEPAN
  , heat the milk over medium heat until steaming. Stir in the honey until thoroughly incorporated.
  
• POUR INTO A LARGE MUG
  and top with whoop and a light sprinkle of fleur de sel.
  

I’m surrounded by sweets all day, so I welcome any opportunity to get a serving of vegetables into my body. That’s why I love this smoothie. It’s got a healthful dose of beta-carotene–rich carrot juice sweetened with honey and punched up with a little tartness from yogurt and peaches. A bit of fresh ginger adds a refreshing tinge of sweet heat.
MAKES TWO 8-OUNCE SERVINGS

• 1
  ¹
  /
  ₄
  cups frozen sliced peaches
  
• 1 cup fresh carrot juice (available at health food stores and Trader Joe’s)
  
• 2 tablespoons plain, whole-milk greek yogurt
  
• 1 tablespoon plus 1
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  teaspoons flavorful honey
  
• 1
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  teaspoons peeled and grated fresh ginger
  

• IN THE BOWL OF A BLENDER
  , combine the peaches, carrot juice, yogurt, honey, and ginger and purée until smooth. Divide between two glasses and serve.
  

This is a favorite at the cart during the hot summer months. It’s cold, refreshing, and a little bit sweet, with a touch of heat from the fresh ginger. You can omit the ginger or add less, if you like, but I find that 2 teaspoons is the perfect amount and not at all overwhelming. Remember, ginger is good for you!
MAKES TWO 8-OUNCE SERVINGS