Sew What! Bags: 18 Pattern-Free Projects You Can Customize to Fit Your Needs (6 page)

SELVAGE
. This is the finished edge on either side of the fabric. Selvages are designed to keep the fabric from unraveling. Some are white with printed information about the designer of the fabric, some have little holes where the fabric was attached to the loom, some have fringy edges, and some are just plain.

GRAINLINE
. The grainline of the fabric refers to the threads running parallel to the selvage. Sometimes this is called the straight (grain) of the fabric. The crosswise grain runs from selvage to selvage. You generally want to cut out the pieces for your bags along the grainline.

BIAS
. The bias runs at a 45-degree angle to the selvage. When you pull fabric along the bias, you will notice that it stretches more in that direction than when you pull on the straight grain. Binding tape is cut along the bias, as stretchiness helps when stitching the tape around corners and curves.

This really depends on what you’re making. For the projects in this book, dimensions are listed and the yardage needed to make them. But your needs may vary. When you lay out the intended contents or sketch out the design, you
can see how much fabric you’re going to need. You can also discuss it with your local fabric store. Tell them what you are planning to make and how big you want it to be and they can help you buy enough fabric. Bring in your sketch and show it to them. I always tend to buy more than I need, just in case. I like to have leftover scraps to use for pockets, trim, or for another project.

UPSIDE-DOWN AND SIDEWAYS

Some printed fabrics are intended to face in a particular direction — for instance, if there are cats, trees, shoes, or other objects that need to be right side up. When using a directional fabric, you may need to adjust how you cut it out, and therefore may need to buy more yardage than listed for a project.

When selecting your fabrics, you’ll want to consider the kind of bag you are making and what you’ll be carrying. For example, if you want to use your bag for heavy items like books or groceries, you will want a stronger, heavier weight fabric like canvas or denim. If you are making a lingerie bag, you can use a delicate, lightweight fabric. Just keep that in mind and when in doubt, go to your local fabric shop to ask if the project and materials are a good fit. For the projects in this book, we used primarily cotton, canvas, linen, and denim. Muslin is good for testing, and sometimes a lightweight flannel works well for lining.

CANVAS
. This fabric is made from a variety of sources, including cotton, linen, jute, or hemp. The term is used to indicate a heavy, tightly woven fabric. Canvas is a great fabric for bags that you’ll use to carry heavier loads, like books. It’s strong and sturdy, and available in a wide variety of colors, prints, and weights.

The DJ Bag on page 115 is made of canvas and denim.

COTTON
. Made from a natural fiber derived from the cotton plant, cotton fabric is available in a wide variety of weights and textures. Basic quilting fabrics are usually 100% cotton and that’s what you’ll find on bolts at your local quilting or fabric shop. There are countless colors and prints from which to choose and you’ll fall in love with browsing through them. Most
of the projects in this book have been made entirely from cotton or they have cotton for pockets or trim.

DENIM
. This cotton fabric is most commonly used for blue jeans. Once primarily available in indigo, it can now be found in many colors and even some prints. It’s an excellent choice for most bags, due to its sturdy but pliable nature. It’s easily laundered and can really take a beating.

The Eyeglasses Case on page 51 is lined with flannel to protect the lenses from scratches.

FLANNEL
A light- to medium-weight fabric, flannel is typically made from cotton, a cotton blend, or wool. Flannel is very soft and warm, commonly used to make bed sheets and plaid shirts. Flannel makes a nice lining for bags that might hold something fragile, such as your glasses or an MP3 player.

LINEN
. A natural fiber derived from flax, linen is a strong, lightweight fabric that is available in many wonderful colors. While its beauty will dazzle you, it does have some drawbacks. It tends to wrinkle (though you can usually hand- or machine-wash it), you’ll have to iron it well, and it can be pricey. That said, linen is a great choice for most of these projects and a lovely way to dress up any bag.

Linen is an excellent choice for dressing up small projects like the Tissue Pouch on page 57.

MUSLIN
. This inexpensive fabric is commonly used to make test versions of projects. When you are trying something new, you might consider a first “draft” made out of muslin. Chances are, it will save you money — not to mention grief over the loss of a beloved vintage remnant you’ve been waiting to use!

I am a big believer in mix and match. You can use different fabrics together and achieve some really cool looks. But it’s a good idea to make sure the fabrics are a suitable match — check care instructions and be sure to preshrink both fabrics. The general rule of thumb is to wash and press your fabric before getting to work. Washing it allows the fabric to shrink — something you don’t want happening
after
you make your bag! In most cases, the fabric will look and feel better after washing, too. Wash it according to the fabric manufacturer’s instructions (usually found on the bolt end when you buy the fabric) and then press it with your trusty iron.

While you can make the simplest bag with no lining or closures, you may want to branch out at some point. Adding a lining your bag increases its durability and enhances the look. Interfacing is another way to add longevity and structure. Or maybe you just want to add some color and flair. See
chapter 2
for more information on how to incorporate these items.

Lining is the fabric sewn to the inside of your bag — a great way to strengthen it, give it more shape, add color or texture, and give it a more finished look. Essentially, you make a second bag of the same size and slip it inside the main bag (wrong sides together), fold under the top edges, and machine-stitch or hand-sew the two together. (For details on how this is done, look at the DJ Bag on page 115.) Some of the projects in this book are lined and some are not. It’s really up to you. If you are not lining your bag, I recommend using a zigzag stitch (
see
pages 36
and
40
) to keep your raw edges from fraying.