Every Grain of Rice: Simple Chinese Home Cooking (48 page)

3 | 老乾媽

Laoganma black bean sauce
(
lao gan ma
)

A zesty relish made from fermented black beans, chillies, vegetable oil and other seasonings. It can be eaten from the jar with noodles or rice and is also used in cooking. Made in Guizhou province, it is now popular all over China and sold in many Chinese supermarkets abroad. Sichuanese chefs in the West are particularly fond of it. Please note that the more common black bean sauce, versions of which are available in most supermarkets, is a completely different product and is not a good substitute.

4 | 醬油

Soy sauce
(
jiang you
)

This is made by fermenting cooked soy beans (sometimes with wheat), mixing them with the appropriate mold spores, then immersing them in brine. The fermentation breaks down the proteins and other compounds, which react with one another to create rich and complex flavors (for a detailed description of the process, see Harold McGee’s
On Food and Cooking
). Light (i) and dark (ii) soy sauces (
sheng chou
and
lao chou
) are the standard seasonings in Chinese cookbooks in the West, but reflect a recent Cantonese influence; in many parts of China, cooks traditionally rely on one tamari-type soy sauce (see below). I’ve suggested light and dark soy sauces for most recipes because they are widely available, but a good tamari can be used in place of light soy sauce. Always buy those that are naturally brewed or fermented. Light soy sauce is used primarily as a salt-savory seasoning and is the more widely used; it is also saltier in taste. Dark soy sauce is used, in very small quantities, to lend a rich, dark color to dishes.

5 | 甜麵醬

Sweet fermented sauce
(
tian mian jiang
)

Also sold, confusingly, as “sweet bean sauce” and “hoisin sauce,” this smooth, dark, glossy paste is made from fermented wheat and salt, sometimes with soy. It is used mainly in dips and stir-fries. Check the Chinese characters on the jar or packet to make sure it’s the right thing.

6 | 醬油

Tamari soy sauce
(
jiang you
)

Made from fermented soy beans, usually without wheat, this is closer to the traditional soy sauces of Sichuan and the Southern Yangtze region than the light and dark varieties. It has a richer, more balanced flavor than most light soy sauces as well as a slightly darker color. I use the Clearspring version, found in health food shops and some supermarkets. If you are using soy sauce in recipes where it stands out as an ingredient, for example in a sauce or a dip, I strongly recommend using tamari soy sauce.

SESAME

芝麻醬

Sesame paste
(
zhi ma jiang
)

Chinese sesame paste is made from roasted sesame seeds, and has a very different taste from that of Middle Eastern tahini. It is sold in glass jars in Chinese supermarkets and usually has a dark, nutty color. As the paste settles in its jar, a layer of oil will form on top. Use a fork or a couple of chopsticks to mix the paste and oil together before using. When a recipe in this book requires “runny sesame paste,” this means paste that has been diluted with oil from the top of the jar to the consistency of light cream. If there isn’t enough oil on top to dilute it, add a little sesame oil.

芝麻

Sesame seeds
(
zhi ma
)

The Chinese use both black and white sesame seeds, although the white are more widely used, while the black are mainly included in sweet dishes. Toasted sesame seeds are often used as a garnish: to toast them, heat them gently for a few minutes in a dry wok or frying pan, stirring constantly, until the white seeds are beginning to turn golden and have a wonderful roasty fragrance. If you are toasting black sesame seeds take great care not to burn them; since they won’t change color, you will need to use your nose rather than your eyes to tell when they are ready. A few sesame seeds may be added to ground chillies in the making of chilli oil, to enhance its fragrance. In this book,”sesame seeds” means white sesame seeds unless otherwise stated.

CHILLIES

Chillies are used in many different forms in China, especially in the chilli headquarters of the southern provinces of Sichuan, Hunan, Guizhou and Jiangxi. The following are some of the most common chilli products. If you have sensitive skin, do use rubber gloves when cutting up fresh or dried chillies; if you don’t wear gloves, avoid touching your eyes or nose after handling cut chillies.

干辣椒

Chillies, dried
(
gan la jiao
)

Choose larger Sichuanese or Indian chillies that have a deep red color but are not too aggressively hot; Mexican de Arbol chillies can also be used. Avoid those tiny, fiery Indian and Thai chillies, which will overwhelm Sichuanese dishes.

辣椒面

Chillies, ground
(
la jiao mian
)

Coarsely ground chillies or chilli flakes are used as a dip for cold meats and as a seasoning in many Sichuanese and Hunanese dishes. They are also the key ingredient in
Chilli Oil
. Choose ground chillies with a deep terracotta color, a pleasant fragrance and a heat that is not too aggressive. Korean chilli flakes—the kind that are used for making
kimchi
pickles—are usually the best option to be found in some Chinatowns.

辣椒油，紅油

Chilli oil
(
la jiao you
,
hong you
)

You can find chilli oil in most Chinese groceries, but the most common Cantonese version can be extremely spicy. For Sichuanese cold dishes a mild chilli oil is best and I recommend making your own, with Sichuanese or Korean ground
chillies
. It takes about 30 minutes to make and keeps indefinitely. It is used mostly in sauces for cold dishes and as a relish for noodles and dumplings. For a milder and more elegant taste, use the oil only; for the hearty taste and mouthfeel of Sichuanese folk cooking, stir in some of the toasted chilli sediment from the bottom of the jar.

豆瓣醬

Sichuan chilli bean paste
(
dou ban jiang
)

A rich, fermented paste made from salt-fermented chillies and fava beans, this is one of the essential condiments in Sichuanese cooking. Lee Kum Kee make a bright, light version which is easily available in Chinese supermarkets; for richer, earthier flavors, seek out the more authentic Sichuanese versions from Pixian (郫縣) which are increasingly being sold in the West.

SPICES

The following are a few of the spices commonly used in Chinese cooking. They are all readily available in Chinese groceries. Often, several are used together to flavor aromatic broths (in which meat, poultry, offal or tofu may be simmered), or stews. You can add them directly to your wok or saucepan, or tie them up in pieces of muslin, which makes them easy to remove before serving. The whole spices may also be roasted and ground to make “five-spice” combinations. If you are going to keep only a couple of spices, I recommend cassia bark and star anise, as well as Sichuan pepper.

香葉

Bay leaves
(
xiang ye
)

These are often used with other spices in aromatic broths and stews.

桂皮

Cassia bark
(
gui pi
)

The dried bark of the Chinese cassia tree, this spice has a cinnamon-like flavor but is considered inferior to true cinnamon. Regular cinnamon sticks can be used instead.

丁香

Cloves
(
ding xiang
)

These have a strong flavor and should be used with extreme moderation. Chinese cooks often pinch off and discard their powdery heads.

孜然

Cumin
(
zi ran
)

Cumin is the hallmark spice of the great Silk Road region of Xinjiang in the northwest, where Uyghur Muslims sprinkle it on sizzling skewers of lamb; it is only used occasionally in southern Chinese cooking. It is, however, the most important spice in a fabulous Hunanese beef dish (see
Beef with Cumin
), which is why it is included in this list.

小茴香

Fennel seeds
(
xiao hui xiang
)

These pale green seeds are often used in spice mixtures.

花椒

Sichuan pepper
(
hua jiao
)

The original Chinese pepper, used long before the more familiar black or white pepper (known in Chinese as “barbarian pepper,”
hu jiao
) entered China along the old silk routes from the west. This spice is the pimply dried berries of a shrub that grows in dry, mountainous areas. At their best they have an intense, woody, citrussy aroma and induce a tingling sensation on the lips and tongue that can last for several minutes. The flavor is concentrated in the dark pink outer layer of the berries and the black seeds are usually discarded before they are sold. Sichuan pepper can be used whole, or roast and ground (tap
here
). Always grind your own in small quantities, as you need them, as the powder quickly loses its fragrance. Store the whole pepper in an airtight jar or, if it’s really fresh and zesty, in the fridge or freezer.

八角

Star anise
(
ba jiao
)

These beautiful dried fruits are one of the most important spices of the Chinese kitchen. They have a very strong aroma and should be used sparingly. Star anise is often used in conjunction with cassia bark.

草果

Tsao-kuo
(
cao guo
)

This spice has no English name, which is why it is often sold by its Chinese name (
cao guo
or
tsao-kuo
), or even its scholarly name (
Amomum tsao-ko
). It consists of dried, brown, ridged seed pods the size of nutmegs and has a cardamom-like flavor. Smack the pods with the flat of a cleaver blade or a rolling pin to open them out before using them (try to avoid smashing them to smithereens).

胡椒

White pepper
(
hu jiao
)

The Chinese almost always use white pepper in cooking, largely because it is a common seasoning in so-called
bai wei
or “white-flavored” dishes (pale-colored dishes made without soy sauce or chilli). Black pepper flecks are seen as unsightly in such dishes. If you prefer, you can use black pepper instead.

DRIED GOODS

1 | 臘腸，香腸

Chinese wind-dried sausage
(
la chang,
xiang chang
)

These pink-and-white, salami-like seasoned sausages can be found in most Chinese supermarkets. Sliced or chopped, they add a rich savory taste, often with a hint of sweetness, to steamed dishes, stir-fries and stuffings; they are never eaten raw. Sometimes, darker pork liver sausages are sold alongside the pinker pork-meat version, but they are harder to find in the West. Wind-dried sausages are made in many parts of China, using different seasonings; those sold in the West tend to be Cantonese. I have sometimes used European salamis and chorizo as a substitute, but I do recommend the Chinese sausages if you can get them. They are easily available in Chinese supermarkets.

2 | 香菇，冬菇，花菇

Dried shiitake mushrooms
(
xiang gu,
dong gu,
hua gu
)

These have an intense flavor, like a Chinese version of Italian porcini. The finest have criss- cross patterns on their caps, which is why they are known as flower mushrooms (
hua gu
). Dried shiitake must be soaked in hot water from the kettle for about 30 minutes until they soften, and they are sometimes also stewed with seasonings before being used in other dishes. Their soaking water may be used to add flavor to vegetarian dishes (if the mushrooms are at all gritty, strain the soaking water before use). The tough mushroom stalks are normally sliced off and discarded and only the caps used in cooking. These mushrooms are sold in Chinese groceries and mainstream supermarkets and keep indefinitely in an airtight box.

3 | 蝦皮，蝦米，開洋

Dried shrimp
(
xia pi
or
xia mi
)

These add a dramatic umami edge to other ingredients and can make a simple cabbage stir-fry into something thrilling. There are two main types: tiny, pale, almost paper-thin shrimp known as “shrimp skin” (
xia pi
or
kai yang
) (i) and the more substantial orange or pink dried shrimp (
xia mi
) (ii). The first can be added directly to soups, stuffings and other preparations, while the second should be soaked in hot water for about 30 minutes before use. A bagful of shrimp skin is a very useful thing to have around especially if, like me, you like eating cabbage-type vegetables. Stored in the refrigerator or freezer, they keep for a long time.