A Beautiful Bowl of Soup (8 page)

Top each bowl of soup with tortilla strips and a mound of the salsa.

This soup will keep for up to 5 days in a covered container in the refrigerator. Prepare the salsa and tortilla strips the day of serving. Refrigerate the salsa in a covered container; store the strips in a tightly covered tin at room temperature.

TIP

White shoepeg corn kernels, named for their peglike shape, are available frozen. The kernels are smaller and sweeter than regular yellow corn kernels.

Vegan recipe if onions are cooked in olive oil not butter and if goat cheese toast is omitted.

The secret to a good onion soup is cooking the onions slowly long enough for the flavors to develop and their sugars to caramelize. Serve this soup in ovenproof bowls, so the goat cheese (which I prefer over the traditional, hearty Gruyère) can soften under the broiler.

Makes 4 cups (4 servings)

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 pound Vidalias or other sweet onions, thinly sliced (about 6 cups)

½ pound red onions, thinly sliced (about 3 cups)

½ cup thinly sliced shallots

4 cloves garlic, minced

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cup dry red wine

3 cups vegetable stock

1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme, or 1 teaspoon dried thyme

˜ salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

¼ cup (2 ounces) fresh white goat cheese (chèvre)

1 small garlic clove, minced

½ teaspoon minced fresh rosemary, or a pinch of dried rosemary, crushed

˜ dash of salt and freshly ground pepper

8 ½-inch slices baguette

Melt the butter in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onions and stir well to coat with the butter. Reduce the heat to medium-low; cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are very tender, about 25 minutes. Increase the heat to medium; uncover and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until the onions are lightly browned, about 15 minutes. (Don’t let the onions burn, or they’ll become bitter.)

Add the shallots and garlic; cook, stirring constantly, for about 2 minutes. Add the wine and increase the heat to medium-high; cook, stirring constantly, until the liquid is completely evaporated, about 3 minutes. Add the vegetable stock and thyme; bring to a boil. Reduce the heat; cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, for about 20 minutes. Season to taste.

Position an oven rack about 4 to 5 inches from the broiler heating element; preheat the broiler. Stir together the goat cheese, olive oil, garlic, rosemary, salt, and pepper in a small bowl. Arrange the bread slices in a single layer on a baking sheet. Lightly toast under the broiler for about 1 minute on each side, or until crusty on the outside, soft on the inside. Spread each bread slice with the goat cheese mixture.

Reposition the oven rack to about 6 inches from the broiler heating element. To serve, pour the soup into ovenproof bowls placed on a baking sheet. Float 2 toasts in a single layer in each bowl and place under the broiler for about 1 minute, or until the cheese is softened. Serve immediately.

This soup will keep for up to 2 days in a covered container in the refrigerator. The bread can be toasted early in the day; store on a lightly covered plate at room temperature. Spread the toasts with goat cheese and broil atop the soup just before serving.

TIPS

Sweet onions are thin-skinned and somewhat flat in shape, including Vidalias from Georgia, Spring Sweets from Texas, Walla Wallas from Washington, Mauis from Hawaii, and OSO Sweets from Chile. These onions contain more water than regular onions, so they do not keep as long. They’re also lower in the sulfur compounds that give most onions their characteristic bite and their power to cause tears. Store all onions in a cool, dry place with good ventilation. Keep them away from potatoes, which give off moisture that causes onions to rot.

Goat cheese (chèvre in French) is made from goat’s milk and may be either fresh and white or coated with herbs and pepper, and is aged to varying degrees. Domestic goat cheese is a fine substitute for the more expensive imported brands. Once opened, tightly wrap fresh goat cheese in plastic and store it in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks, or marinate it in olive oil for longer storage. (Do not confuse fresh white goat cheese with feta cheese or caprini, Italian goat cheese, which is aged, less creamy, and more acidic.)

Life is like an onion. You peel off one layer at a time; and sometimes you weep.

—Carl Sandburg

Vegan recipe if cheese garnish is omitted

In my home, this chili is a fall tradition, and I serve it with a green salad tossed with a creamy dressing and warm corn muffins. Leftover chili, if there is any, is delicious over split baked potatoes. Pop them under the broiler to melt a topping of cheese.

Makes 8 cups (6 to 8 servings)

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 cup coarsely chopped onion

1 green bell pepper, seeded, deribbed, and coarsely chopped

2 celery stalks, coarsely chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 28-ounce can tomatoes with juice, tomatoes halved

1 15-ounce can kidney beans, drained and rinsed

1 15-ounce can tomato sauce

1 cup water

1 cup fresh or frozen corn kernels

2 teaspoons chili powder, or to taste

½ teaspoon Tabasco sauce, or to taste (see Tip)

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 tablespoon minced fresh oregano, or 1 teaspoon dried oregano

1 tablespoon minced fresh basil, or 1 teaspoon dried basil

1 bay leaf

½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper, or to taste

1 cup whole raw cashews

1 cup dark raisins

˜ salt to taste

˜ shredded Monterey Jack or Cheddar cheese for garnish

Heat the oil in an a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion, bell pepper, celery, and garlic; cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are crisp-tender, about 8 minutes.

Stir in the tomatoes with juice, beans, tomato sauce, water, corn, chili powder, Tabasco sauce, cumin, oregano, and dried basil (if using), bay leaf, and pepper. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat; cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes.

Stir in the cashews and raisins; continue to simmer, covered, until the raisins are plump and the cashews are tender, about 20 minutes. During the last 5 minutes, stir in the fresh basil (if using). Remove the bay leaf. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

Top each serving with cheese.

If possible, prepare this chili 1 day in advance to allow the flavors to blend; refrigerate in a covered container for up to 5 days. When reheating, stir in water, vegetable stock, or tomato juice to thin as desired.

TIP

Once opened, refrigerate Tabasco (hot pepper) sauce to retain its zesty flavor and red color.

Caraway bread crumbs give this hearty soup a fine edge. Serve with a green salad, crusty rolls, and a crisp dry Riesling wine or German beer for a fine fall meal.

Makes 5 cups (4 to 6 servings)

bread crumbs

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

½ cup dried caraway rye bread crumbs (see Tips)

2 tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 carrot, finely chopped

½ cup finely chopped onion

½ red bell pepper, seeded, deribbed, and finely chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 cups vegetable stock

1½ cups small broccoli florets

1 small russet potato (about 6 ounces), peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes (about 1 cup)

¼ teaspoon celery seed

2 cups milk

2 cups (8 ounces) coarsely shredded sharp Cheddar cheese (see Tips)

¼ teaspoon dry mustard

˜ salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Melt the butter in a small skillet over low heat. Add the bread crumbs and stir constantly until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and set aside to cool. Toss in the parsley. Set aside.

Melt the butter in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the carrot, onion, bell pepper, and garlic; cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes. Add the flour; stir constantly over low heat for about 2 minutes. Gradually add the vegetable stock, whisking until the mixture is smooth.

Add the broccoli, potato, and celery seed. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat; cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes.

Stir in the milk. When the soup is warm, add the cheese, stirring gently (taking care not to break the broccoli florets) until melted. Stir in the mustard and season to taste.

Sprinkle each serving with pepper and bread crumbs.

Refrigerate this soup and the bread crumbs in separate covered containers for up to 3 days.

TIPS

To make bread crumbs, use dry bread. Tear it into small pieces and grind it into crumbs in a food processor or blender (or put the bread in a plastic bag and crush with a rolling pin). If the bread is too moist, slice it thin and dry it in a 250° F oven, then grind into crumbs.

To store cheese, remove it from the packaging and wrap it tightly in plastic wrap or a plastic bag. Store in the refrigerator cheese compartment or another not-too-cold spot in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. If mold appears on firm cheese (such as Parmesan), semifirm cheese (such as Cheddar), or semisoft cheese (such as Gouda or Monterey Jack), simply cut it away. Mold on fresh or soft-ripened cheese (such as Brie or fresh white goat cheese) signals that the cheese should be thrown away.

Age is not important unless you are a cheese.

—Helen Hayes, in the play New Woman

Vegan recipe if butter is omitted

This quick-to-prepare soup is at its best when fresh corn is available, but frozen will also do well. Offer togarashi powder (see Tips) or red pepper flakes at the table so guests may adjust the heat to taste.

Makes 8 cups (6 to 8 servings)

8 cups vegetable stock

¼ cup soy sauce, or to taste

˜ dash of ground white pepper, or to taste

4 ounces dried thin Chinese wheat-flour noodles (see Tips)

8 cups (about 8 ounces) stemmed and coarsely shredded fresh spinach

2 cups fresh or frozen corn kernels

2 green onions, including green parts, finely chopped

2 tablespoons salted butter

˜ dash of red pepper flakes or togarashi powder, or to taste

Combine the vegetable stock, soy sauce, and pepper in a Dutch oven. Cover and bring to a boil over high heat.

Add the noodles, spinach, corn, and green onions. When the soup returns to a boil, cover and cook, keeping the liquid at a boil, until the noodles are tender and the spinach is wilted, about 3 minutes. As the noodles cook, stir occasionally with a fork to separate. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

To serve, use tongs to divide the noodles, spinach, and corn among the bowls, then ladle in the stock. Top each steaming bowl of soup with 1 teaspoon butter and the red pepper flakes.

This soup is best when prepared just before serving.

TIPS

Togarashi is a small, hot Japanese chili, available dried and ground and sold in most Asian markets. Ichimi togarashi contains only chilies. Nanomi togarashi contains the chili powder plus additional ingredients, such as sesame seeds, seaweed, and orange peel. Either can be used in recipes calling for togarashi.

Dried Chinese wheat-flour noodles are available in Asian markets and in most supermarkets. They are usually curly and tightly packed into a block; those made with eggs are yellow. Chinese noodles taste best when tender but not overcooked; they are very thin and cook quickly, so watch closely.

I have fond childhood memories of matzo balls made by my favorite Jewish aunt. Matzo balls can be firm and chewy or light and fluffy, but hers, somewhere in between, were always just perfect. Of course, Aunt Ceil’s traditional soup had a chicken base, which took hours to prepare. This faster vegetarian version tastes nearly as good.

Makes 7 cups soup and 12 matzo balls (6 servings)

2 eggs, lightly beaten

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, or vegetable oil

2 tablespoons vegetable stock or water

½ cup unsalted matzo meal (see Tips)

1 tablespoon minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 tablespoon snipped fresh dill, or ½ teaspoon dried dill

½ teaspoon, plus a dash of salt

6 cups vegetable stock

2 cups coarsely chopped white cabbage

1 parsnip, peeled and cut into ¼-inch dice (see Tips)

½ red bell pepper, seeded, deribbed, and coarsely chopped

1 celery stalk with leaves, coarsely chopped

1 carrot, cut into ¼-inch slices

1 bay leaf

1 tomato, peeled and cut into ½-inch dice

2 green onions, including green parts, coarsely chopped (see Tips)

¼ cup coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

˜ salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Stir together the eggs, butter, and vegetable stock in a small bowl. Add the matzo meal, parsley, dill, and ½ teaspoon salt; stir until evenly combined. Cover and refrigerate for at least 15 minutes or for up to 8 hours.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat; add a dash of salt. Using wet hands or a small ice-cream scoop, form the dough into 12 balls about 1 inch in diameter. Drop the balls, one at a time, into the boiling water. Reduce the heat, cover, and simmer for about 30 minutes, or until the matzo balls are plump, tender, and cooked through. (Check the stove temperature occasionally; a hard boil will break the balls apart.)

Combine the vegetable stock, cabbage, parsnip, bell pepper, celery and leaves, carrot, and bay leaf in a Dutch oven. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat; cover and simmer until the vegetables are nearly tender, about 20 minutes. Stir in the remaining ingredients and cook until the vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes. Remove the bay leaf. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

When the matzo balls are done, use a slotted spoon to transfer them to a plate.

For each serving, place 2 matzo balls in a shallow soup bowl and ladle the soup over them.

Refrigerate this soup and the matzo balls in separate covered containers for up to 3 days. It’s easiest to assemble individual servings of the soup with the matzo balls and reheat them in the microwave. Or, reheat the soup and matzo balls together in a Dutch oven for no longer than 10 minutes, taking care not to break apart the matzo balls.

TIPS

Matzo meal is made from matzo, the thin, unleavened bread traditionally eaten during Jewish Passover. Both can be found in Jewish markets as well as most supermarkets.

Parsnips are a mild, sweet-tasting white root vegetable. Look for small parsnips, up to 8 inches in length; larger roots have a stronger flavor, a fibrous texture, and a woody center. Parsnips will keep for up to 2 weeks in a plastic bag in the refrigerator; the longer they are stored, the sweeter they become. Before using, peel to remove the waxy coating.

Green onions, also called scallions, are delicate members of the onion family. Their size varies from very slender to thick; as a rule, the narrower the onion, the sweeter the flavor. The white part should be firm and unblemished; the leaves should be bright green and firm. Both parts can be used in most recipes calling for green onions. Wrap unwashed green onions in a plastic bag and store them for up to 1 week in the vegetable-crisper section of the refrigerator.

Worries go down better with soup.

—Yiddish proverb

Vegan recipe

A culinary mainstay in Japan, miso is made with fermented soybeans mashed into a paste the consistency of peanut butter. It has a wonderful salty depth and adds texture and flavor to light, delicate vegetable soups.

Makes 6 cups (6 servings)

6 cups vegetable stock

¼ cup brown miso (see Tips)

3 ½-inch slices fresh ginger

18 snow peas, stems and strings removed

4 large white mushrooms, thinly sliced

1 carrot, coarsely shredded

2 green onions, including green parts, finely chopped

¼ red bell pepper, seeded, deribbed, and finely chopped

1 teaspoon Asian sesame oil (optional)

˜ pinch of red pepper flakes, or to taste (optional)

6 ounces extra-firm tofu at room temperature, cut into ½-inch dice (see Tips)

˜ green onion curls or sprigs of fresh cilantro for garnish

Whisk together the vegetable stock and miso in a Dutch oven; add the ginger. Bring to a boil over high heat; cover and cook for about 5 minutes. Stir in the snow peas, mushrooms, carrot, green onions, and bell pepper.

Reduce the heat; cover and simmer until the vegetables are just tender, about 3 minutes. Remove the ginger and discard. Stir in the sesame oil and red pepper flakes (if using).

For each serving, ladle soup over the tofu cubes in a deep soup bowl. Garnish with the green onion curls.

Prepare this soup without the tofu; refrigerate in a covered container for up to 3 days. Reheat and assemble the servings with tofu.

TIPS

Miso, a Japanese condiment made from soybeans, is easily digested and highly nutritious, rich in B vitamins and protein. Look for it in Asian markets and the refrigerated section of some grocery stores, where it is sold in vacuum-sealed pouches or tubs. There are many varieties, so keep in mind that the darker the color, the stronger, saltier, and more robust the flavor will be. Store miso in the refrigerator for up to 2 years; it keeps well because of its high sodium content.

Tofu, or bean curd, is made from soybeans. The texture varies from soft to firm depending on how much water is extracted during processing. Choose extra-firm or firm tofu if you want it to hold its sliced or diced shape. Softer types are better for dips, sauces, and puddings, where a creamy consistency is desired.

Vegan recipe

Serve this light and lively lemony soup as a first course for dinner or with warm, crusty bread for lunch. Orzo is a tiny, barley-shaped pasta; riso, a similar shape, can be substituted.

Makes 6 cups (4 to 6 servings)

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 cup coarsely chopped onion

1 red bell pepper, seeded, deribbed, and finely chopped

3 cloves garlic, minced

5 cups vegetable stock

1 15-ounce can diced tomatoes with juice

6 cups (about 6 ounces) stemmed and coarsely shredded fresh spinach

¼ cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley (see Tip)

½ cup orzo or riso pasta

¼ cup fresh lemon juice

˜ salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Heat the oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion; cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the bell pepper and garlic; continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the onion is golden and the bell pepper softens, about 5 minutes.

Add the vegetable stock and tomatoes with juice. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil. Stir in the spinach, parsley, and orzo. Reduce the heat; cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the spinach is wilted and the orzo is tender, about 10 minutes. Stir in the lemon juice and season to taste.

Prepare this soup without adding the lemon juice. Refrigerate in a covered container for up to 5 days. When reheating, add the lemon juice and water or vegetable stock to thin as desired.

TIP

Flat-leaf, or Italian, parsley is preferable to the more common curly-leaf parsley for cooking. It has a brighter flavor and stands up to heat. Wash fresh parsley and shake off the excess moisture, then wrap the parsley in damp paper towels and store for up to 1 week in a plastic bag in the refrigerator.

Vegan recipe

I often pair this soup with crusty bread and a green salad tossed in a creamy dressing for a casual, hearty vegetarian meal. The alliance of tomatoes, lentils, and fresh herbs is very pleasing. The soup actually improves when made in advance, so that the flavors have a chance to marry.

Makes 8 cups (8 servings)

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 cup finely chopped onion

2 cloves garlic, minced

4 cups vegetable stock

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cup dried brown lentils, rinsed (see Tip)

2 carrots, finely chopped

2 celery stalks, finely chopped

1 bay leaf

1 6-ounce can tomato paste

¼ cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, plus sprigs of fresh flat-leaf parsley for garnish

1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme, or 1 teaspoon dried thyme, sprig of fresh thyme for garnish

1 tablespoon snipped fresh dill, or 1 teaspoon dried dill

1 tablespoon minced fresh tarragon, or 1 teaspoon dried tarragon

1 teaspoon minced fresh sweet marjoram, or ¼ teaspoon dried marjoram

½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper, or to taste

1 28-ounce can tomatoes, coarsely chopped, with juice

˜ salt to taste

Heat the oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic; cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. Stir in the vegetable stock, lentils, carrots, celery, and bay leaf. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat; cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the lentils and vegetables are tender, about 1 hour.

Meanwhile, stir together the tomato paste, chopped parsley, thyme, dill, tarragon, marjoram, and pepper in a small bowl; set aside.

Remove the bay leaf from the soup. Stir in the tomatoes with juice. Add 1 cup of the soup liquid to the tomato paste mixture and stir until smooth; add to the soup and stir gently until heated through. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

Garnish each serving with a sprig of fresh herb.

This soup will keep for up to 5 days in a covered container in the refrigerator. When reheating, stir in vegetable stock or water to thin as desired.

TIP

Lentils are tiny legume seeds that were dried as soon as they ripened. All lentils have an earthy, almost nutty flavor. The most common are brown lentils, which retain their shape after cooking. Red lentils (sometimes called Egyptian lentils) are smaller and orange in their dried form. They cook quickly, fall apart, and turn bright yellow during cooking. They are found in many supermarkets and in Eastern or Indian markets.

Unlike other dried beans, lentils don’t need soaking before cooking. Before using, put lentils in a colander and rinse to remove dust; also pick through them and discard any shriveled lentils or bits of gravel. You can add garlic, herbs, and spices to the lentil cooking water. Avoid adding salt and acidic ingredients, such as tomatoes, until the lentils are cooked. Adding these ingredients increases the cooking time necessary for the lentils to soften. Store lentils at room temperature in a tightly closed container, where they will keep for up to 1 year.

Vegan recipe if cheese garnish is omitted

This is one of my favorite meals in a bowl, brimming with vegetables, pasta, and beans. Pistou, the Provençal basil-and-tomato version of pesto, transforms the humble ingredients into gastronomic gold. This minestrone is ideal as a do-ahead dinner for large groups and needs simply to be accompanied with a green salad and Sun-Dried Tomato–Goat Cheese Bruschetta or crusty Italian bread served with Basil Pesto Butter.