Read Straight on Till Morning Online
Authors: Mary S. Lovell
âIf you're really serious about getting your B licence,' Tom told her, âyou could get it by Christmas. Then perhaps you could get a job as a private pilot in England.'
50
Tom left in June and Beryl worked from Melela. She flew at every opportunity to build up her hours, and worked like a demon on aviation theory for her commercial ticket. She was so busy that in the week she had to fly to Mombasa to take her B licence tests, she suddenly noticed that her log book entries were incomplete. Beryl always ensured that entries into her log book were neatly made and she habitually jotted down the details of each flight on a pad for copying later into her log book. On the only occasion that the log book is completed in a hand not her own, her father wrote up the entries from her rough notes.
Beryl took the examination that would make her a commercial pilot. The tests included stripping an engine and cleaning jets, petrol and oil filters, changing plugs and adjusting magneto points as well as written and oral examination on the theory and practice of air law and navigation.
51
On 18 September the
Mombasa Times
announced that âBeryl Markham has now been granted her Air Ministry Pilot's “B” licence which entitles her to carry passengers in an aeroplane for hire or reward. Mrs Markham holds the distinction of being the first woman in Kenya, and of being the first Kenya trained pilot to obtain a “B” licence. There are very few women “B” pilots anywhere in the world.' Beryl reported later: âHeavens! How thrilled I was. “My girl, you are getting somewhere at last,” I said to myself.'
52
Her first commercial job, before she left Mombasa, was taking tourists for joy flights along the coast.
After gaining her commercial licence she operated from the rented cottage at Muthaiga, taking any kind of flying job that came her way.
Arap
Ruta was still at her side, a faithful shadow who learned as much about aircraft maintenance as Beryl. Tom was in Kenya again with the Furnesses, and she saw him as often as his work allowed. He told her of his participation in the King's Cup where in the early rounds he managed second, fourth and eighth places, but this was not good enough to get him into the final round.
53
Beryl had already started to build up her safari work, taking Blixen and his clients game-spotting, and providing a message service to and from Percival's bush camps. From December 1933 she accompanied safari groups, making the camps her base for up to ten days at a time. Operating from hastily cleared landing strips, she would go off each morning scouting by air for the animal herds, reporting their position to the waiting hunters. Tom was unhappy about this work, and constantly warned her always to be on the lookout for somewhere to land. She got into the habit of spotting potential landing sites where she could make an emergency landing if necessary, but seldom had to use any of them.
54
Throughout that winter while Tom flew for Furness, Beryl flew scouting sorties for Blixen and other white hunters.
Beryl and Tom were still lovers during this period. âAs far as I recall he was her only boyfriend,' a contemporary recalled, and he shared Beryl's delight when she landed her first contract. George Edye of East African Airways apparently sent for her one day. âWant a job?' he asked. Beryl was too excited to speak and just nodded. The job was delivering mail and supplies to miners at the gold mines of Kakamega, Musoma and Watende. Beryl said, âIt was difficult flying. The airstrips were pocket handkerchief size and a forced landing anywhere en route meant almost certain death from thirst.'
55
Gold mining never became big business in Kenya, but in the early 1930s, when a few nuggets were discovered, there was a great deal of excitement and talk of another Rand. Miners flocked to the âgold fields' some forty miles from Lake Victoria, and when Elspeth Huxley (then a young journalist) visited Kakamega in 1933, upwards of a thousand men were encamped there in tents and roughly erected native bandas, eagerly panning riverbeds and sinking shafts. What she remembered principally though were the fireflies: âAt night the ridges and valleys around about sparkled with millions of these insects, flashing their signals till the countless stars overhead were matched, it seemed, by another canopy of stars below.'
56
G. D. Fleming, who was a pilot for East African Airways in 1935, well remembered Kakamega airfield. âIt was 5000 feet above sea level, with two runways at right angles, each about 25 by 700 yards.' On one occasion he landed there in a tropical storm. âIt was coming down in a solid wall, the visibility was less than 25 yards. As soon as I crossed the boundary I closed the throttles and landed about 150 yards inside the hedge. The landing strip [I had chosen] sloped uphill very steeply, with tall trees at the top. We used to land uphill and take-off downhill. As the machine ran along the ground I saw through the wall of water a dim object in my path. As it rapidly came closer I realized that it was a car.' He opened the throttle and bounced over the car but by then he could not stop within the length of the runway and the aeroplane somersaulted over the perimeter bank. He regained consciousness to see the passengers âhanging from the seat belts like bats and very red in the face'.
57
Beryl augmented her income from this contracted work by providing a courier service for safari parties, and delivering medical supplies or doctors to emergency cases. Sometimes she flew an accident victim or critically sick patient from distant outposts to hospital in Nairobi.
58
In addition she provided an air taxi service to up-country farms, undercutting Wilson Airways' rates of one shilling and threepence per mile.
59
Often she worked as a relief pilot for East African Airways and a colleague, G.D. âFlip' Fleming, stated:
She was a fine pilot with great courage and endurance, and with the exception of Jean Batten I think Beryl was the finest woman pilot in the British Empireâ¦
I never saw her tired or âthe worse for wear' even after a ten-hour flight or a party the night before. She always looked fresh and cheerfulâ¦her navigation was uncanny, and she could find her way to any spot in the vast open country of East Africaâ¦I never saw her make a poor landing, even in really filthy weather, on bad aerodromes or at night.
60
When the Furness safari ended in January, Tom made preparations to fly to the Furness mansion near Melton Mowbray in Leicestershire. Beryl was heavily engaged in scouting for Blixen's safaris until March and was busy and happy. The pair saw the forthcoming separation as a temporary one. Tom hoped to compete in the King's Cup air races that summer and would return to Kenya for the safari season as usual. He was also hoping to involve himself in the big air race from London to Australia but this would need sponsorship and a special type of aeroplane, and at that stage it was very much a dream. He had made preliminary contact with Charles Scott, a fellow pilot with whom he was considering teaming up for the race, but their plans were very sketchy. The couple talked of Beryl's flying to England during the summer, and this arrangement suited her.
Neither knew it, but his departure from Kenya signalled the end of their love affair.
1933â1936
In 1933, Beryl was a woman confident of her ability to fly and earn a living in an exciting new field. If she had failed in this venture she could still have supported herself, for her skill in handling horses would not have failed her. Indeed she still helped Clutterbuck occasionally on his farm at Elburgon where he was again training successfully; by the mid 1930s he had produced two Derby winners.
1
But she was still searching for something. Destiny had not finished with her, she was convinced of that, and she was restless, almost apprehensively anticipating âsomething that would happen to change my life â I always knew it would'.
2
Notoriously fastidious about her appearance, Beryl regularly attended a beauty parlour in Nairobi to have her hair lightened and her nails manicured. She invariably dressed in her famous livery of white silk shirt and cravat and the loose white slacks which fitted snugly over her slim hips and flowed sensuously around her exceptionally long legs. Seeing her fine fair skin, her blue eyes and sheer femininity, but particularly her jaunty manner of speaking, an onlooker might have dismissed her as a society woman playing with aeroplanes. But flying was no game to her, and despite the apparent vulnerability in her shy smile she was always aware of the impression she created. Furthermore she was not displeased with reactions to her unusual combination of stunning looks and somewhat masculine profession. There were other women pilots in East Africa at that time, but none except Beryl earned their living at what was regarded as a rather dangerous sport.
It is interesting to speculate about the feelings of a man, stranded in the bush for days with a broken ankle, waiting for assistance after he had sent a runner for help. He must have been delighted when the tiny blue and silver aeroplane roared over his camp. Anxiously watching the aeroplane land on the prepared bush clearing in the distance, he waited for the pilot to walk to his camp. If King Kong had walked into the clearing with first aid and fresh supplies he would have welcomed him like a brother. Imagine then his feelings when, instead of a helmeted male pilot, a tall Garboesque vision of a girl, dressed in white, with long blonde hair and painted nails, grinned cheerfully and handed over a bottle of gin â Beryl's cure-all for bush-stranded hunters. âHe must have wondered if he hadn't died and gone to heaven,' an old timer recalled when he retold the story, but this is only one of many such stories and it is now almost impossible to separate fact from legend.
Operating from the Muthaiga Club, Beryl conducted her freelance flying business with great success. She was the first person to offer aerial elephant scouting commercially, and fortunately there is a report of the first time she tried it. Colonel Leonard Ropner, a Member of Parliament who visited Kenya for big-game hunting in October 1933, reported that Beryl had found a way of using the aeroplane most effectively for spotting elephant.
I went to Egypt to study the political situation and finding that I had six weeks to spare before the recess ended, I thought I would go to Kenya. So I flew there from Cairo by the weekly Imperial Airways liner. We flew over lots of game, including elephant. At Nairobi, Baron von Blixen, a Swedish sportsman, joined us. The party consisted of ten Africans, three of whom were expert trackersâ¦they had previously been poachers, and one was a murderer!â¦One of the most amazing sights is hunting by car, but it is not very sporting, I should not indulge in it. I was trying to get an elephant for three weeks but only on the last day of my stay in the bush did I succeed.
Acting on Blixen's advice, Colonel Ropner sent runners two hundred miles to Nairobi with a message for Beryl. She flew to their camp and undertook to scout for elephant and report to the hunters next day.
This was her first charter of this description. She took up the Baron to look for elephant. At last they spotted one big bull elephant with tusks which looked as though they might be over 150-pounds. There were two others with tusks over 100-pounds. It took them only half an hour to fly back to camp, but it took a day and a half to march through the bush to the position indicated. At dawn the next day [Beryl] flew up and down at the place where the elephant had been seen, while we made fires to let her spot us. She returned and dropped a message which stated that she had seen four large bulls. Even then it took us five hours to reach the spot.
3
Sometimes Beryl worked for Bunny Allen. âShe was an excellent pilotâ¦' the former white hunter recalled, explaining that Beryl would fly into their camp using a makeshift airstrip which was as close as the hunting party could make it. Having ascertained what animal the party were after, whether elephant or buffalo, she would take off and locate a herd. âIf it was specified that she should look for a big elephant, she was a girl to know what a big elephant meant.' A big elephant meant big tusks â up to 200 pounds in weight. Sometimes she would return and land at the camp, and perhaps take one of the hunters along to show him. Or she might drop a note to the party in one of the special leather message bags she carried in the Avian for the purpose. To these little bags were attached streamer ribbons in her racing colours of blue and gold. A leather bag could easily lie lost in the bush, but the gaily coloured ribbons led searchers to the message quickly.
4
âShe knew her way about the country wonderfully wellâ¦and was a very good bush pilot. Sometimes we would make an arrangement to rendezvous with her at a certain point on a river, or by a certain pond that happened to be left over from the last rains.' Sometimes when thick bush made a landing impossible she would indicate the position of the animals by flying in wide circles over them.
5
During the whole of this period Beryl had no sophisticated direction-finding instruments and no radio. Her aeroplane was fitted only with a compass, a turn and bank indicator and an altimeter. If she had gone down in the bush she had no way of letting anyone know her position.
In January 1934 Ernest Hemingway visited Kenya and went on safari with Phillip Percival, the most famous white hunter of them all. He later portrayed Percival as big-game hunter Robert Wilson in one of his African stories.
6
During his visit Hemingway contracted dysentery which became further complicated. âI became convinced that Iâ¦had been chosen to bear our Lord Buddha when he should be born again on earth.'
7
It was not childbirth, but a prolapse of the lower intestine. A rescue aeroplane was hastily summoned and Hemingway was hospitalized in Nairobi. Despite the severe pain he was suffering, he not only took note of the flight over Kilimanjaro but was able to use his memory of it with typical eloquence in his novel
The Snows of Kilimanjaro
.
Whilst convalescing he met Bror Blixen and the pair, alike in so many ways, became firm friends. Hemingway invited Bror to join him at the end of February on a deep-sea fishing trip in the Indian Ocean, an invitation which also included Bror's safari client Alfred Vanderbilt. Bror introduced Hemingway to Nairobi society, including Beryl, who had been contracted to work full time for Bror aerial scouting for the Vanderbilt safari. Hemingway referred to this period some years later when, writing of Beryl's memoir, he said, âI knew her fairly well in Africaâ¦'
8
He could not have imagined that his letter would be a moving force in Beryl's rediscovery as a writer nearly half a century later. Bror Blixen also refers to this Vanderbilt safari in
African Hunter
:
The first time we went elephant hunting in the country around Voi, but it was a miserable business. We had sight of a big elephant that defied us for two and a half months. We were continually in harness the whole time, wore out many pairs of boots, smashed up an aeroplane and three cars, but all to no purpose.
This aeroplane could not have been Beryl's, for her log book shows no break in the operation of KAN throughout the period; she flew for the Vanderbilt party every day for two weeks, during which time she took both Blix and Vanderbilt up in the Avian to look for animals around Kilamakoy.
When the safari season ended Beryl earned her living ferrying passengers to and from up-country farms, and taking any flying job that came along such as cargo delivery, or flying a Nairobi doctor to patients in remote locations. There were diversions: she still competed in gymkhana events and her name generally appeared in the prize list for jumping classes. In April 1934 a new airstrip called Njoro Landing Ground was officially opened. Beryl flew in, along with well-known aviators such as Carberry, St Barbe, Florrie Wilson and Silver Jane. Beryl won a prize for landing at a time prescribed some days previously by the aviation committee, and later collected the trophy for winning the Aerial Derby. This was a thirty-mile course but âseveral of the competitors went astray', and Beryl cruised into a finish some minutes ahead of her rivals. The day finished with joy flights for spectators until dusk called a halt to the flying, whereupon everybody trooped to the clubhouse and dancing went on until the early hours.
9
In early spring there was news that Tom had entered the forthcoming race from London to Melbourne. Thrilled, Beryl wrote asking him for more news. His reply came almost immediately. Beryl's letters to Tom do not survive (except the one she reprinted in her memoir), but some of his answers do. They are far from ardent, even before he met the beautiful actress with whom he was to fall headlong in love and pursue until she simply gave in and married him. Rather they have an avuncular, almost patronizing tone, though Beryl disagreed with this assessment, saying it was âjust his way', and she had long ago edited them, typing them out and printing the words âextract from a letter to me from Tom Campbell Black' at the top of the pages.
The Royal Aero Club
119 Piccadilly,
London W1
Â
24th March 1934
Dear Beryl,
Very many thanks for your letter, it was clever of you to understand, so really clearly, what I tried to convey about the definite undercurrent of intense and deadly jealousy which exists in people in East Africa. Purged of many of them the country would blossom out into a land of amazing allurement and prosperity â a land in which one could find the contented realization of one's dreams.
This London houses and holds the millions, yet here things are a little different; the affairs of neighbours, the jealousies of friends, create less interest than in the little tin-pot land of Kenya.
Yet with the marvellous freedom from condemning scandals, with the complete knowledge that one is free to do with oneself as one wishes, see whom one likes, and live entirely untrammelled if so wishing, yet even so, a ghastly mantle of depressing melancholy turns one's thoughts and ambitions in another direction and makes one long to become a personality again, and so to break away from it all, go back to the individuality and independence of the life in Kenya, even despite the lying, scurrilous thoughts and bitter comments of one's neighbours there.
Perhaps what I have written is senseless and contradictory, but I pay you the compliment of knowing that if you cannot logically follow my reasoning, you will at least understand the theme of what I'm writing, and so I will not re-read this letter, because by alterations one may perhaps become more clear in expression, but perhaps one alters what one wishes to convey.
Those who have been friends to us, and even more, should be included in the list of things for which we should be happy and proud. They form my fellowship of lofty thoughts. And one must keep one's dreams, forgetting nightmares, and grotesque unpleasantnesses of ânever mattering' people.
Here I am, longing for freedom, chained to the monotonous drudgery of a well paid job, chained by invisible bonds, for truly if I broke away from my present occupation I should be breaking up the very things that mean so much to me. I like Furness most awfully. Kind and considerate to me in all his business dealings, he is more outside this sphere and so dependent on me for so much, that to leave at the moment would be an ingratitude! Fancy Tom Black, supposed by all to have exploited Mrs Wilson (
vivé
Wheeler's version) to write like this!!! Just fancy sentiment entering into anything in this astonishing age. And from both you and I!
Anyway I'm always mad, and have been lately, for getting down to some practical details of existence I have taken some most amazing stock market gambles and I think I've lost. I now only exist therefore until October. You ask me to write of the race â there isn't much to tell.
I was determined to enter, as I wish it to be a preliminary opening for my flying ambitions. What these are it is difficult to detail, because as machines and ranges get swifter and bigger, so do one's ideas, and much must depend on how the race eventuates. In idle moments we have talked Atlantic Oceans, of cabbages and Kings, and Cape Flights, and now, if all is well and goes well, perhaps it is all within my grasp, but with a faster, possibly impossible conception. The Race must anyway, thank God, be tackled first.
The machine is being built and will I think be fast and the range long. Scott is a grand man to be with, and both of us thought it better right way back at the early whisper of the Race, to go together fifty-fifty level basis, rather than for each separately to rely on second pilots, one or both of whom would not enjoy our absolute and complete confidence, or anyway fit in as a 100% team.
Then we were each separately offered mounts for the Race, and both unknown to each other refused, because of our past agreement. This left us a team without a machine; but we were optimistic and so at length, after many discussions with various syndicates we accepted the Comet. It will be ready in August and we hope for the best. Without knowing other people's performances it is ridiculous to even hint or guess at our chances.
I leave Furness in August, temporarily until after the Race when I rejoin him in Kenya, and meanwhile from August till October go into training. We take the Race very very seriously and of course hope for the best. If we can put up a good show and have luck in our favour, perhaps my having left Kenya was for the best and not in vain.
Have been over in Germany during the so-called revolution and I think Hitler's action in facing 200 armed rebels only with his pilot and himself, at night, and during the meeting of rebels, one of the most marvellous pieces of physical courage in the annals of history. He is like that though â a wonderful man, above all considerations of personal weakness.
10
God bless you Beryl and don't please be bored with my attempts to write my thoughts, however badly they are expressed, because I have tried to keep pace with them, and so, naturally have undoubtedly made many, many errors of both composition, construction and coherence.
Â
Tom
11