Pie and Pastry Bible (90 page)

MAKE THE GANACHE TOPPING

Break the chocolates into small pieces into the bowl of a food processor with the metal blade. Process until the chocolate is very finely ground.

In a heatproof glass measure, if using a microwave oven, or in a small saucepan, bring the cream to a boil. With the motor running, immediately pour it through the feed tube onto the chocolate mixture. Process until smooth, about 15 seconds, scraping the sides of the bowl once or twice. Add the vanilla and pulse a few times to incorporate it. Pour it into a bowl. Let cool to room temperature.

Pour the ganache over the peanut butter mousse in each tart in a circular motion, so that it does not land too heavily in any one spot and cause a depression. (For exact amounts for each tart, see page 321.) If the ganache becomes too firm to pour, spread it instead or reheat it slightly, stirring very gently, in a microwave or double boiler. With a small metal spatula, start by spreading the ganache to the edges of the pastry. Then spread it evenly to cover the entire surface of each tart; make a thin layer, a little under
inch. Make a spiral pattern by lightly pressing the spatula against the surface and running it from the outside to the center.

Refrigerate the tarts for at least 2 hours to set.

ASSEMBLE THE TART

Unmold the tart (see page 251) and set each layer on its base. Place the center post firmly into the base of the stand. Slide the first acrylic spacer onto the post. Cut out a 1¾-inch hole in the center for the center post in all of the tiers except the top one. Slide each tier onto the post, placing an acrylic spacer in between each one.

To serve, cut with a sharp thin-bladed knife, preferably dipped in hot water between each slice.

STORE

Room temperature, up to 1 day; refrigerated, up to 5 days; frozen, up to 3 months.

NOTE

If the dough is rolled to the exact thickness specified, the filling and ganache amounts will be exact. If the dough is rolled a little thicker, there will be a little leftover filling and ganache.

TART SIZE	DOUGH CIRCLE DIAMETER	APPROXIMATE BAKING TIME AT 375°F.	FILLING	GANACHE
4¾ inches/12 cm	6 inches	8 min.	cup	3 tablespoons
5½ inches/14 cm	7¾ inches	10 min.	cup	¼ cup
7¾ inches/19½ cm	9½ inches	10 min.	1¾ cups	¾ cup
9½ inches/24 cm	11½ inches	10 to 12 min.	2½ cups	1 cup
10 inches/25½ cm	12½ inches	10 to 12 min.	3¼ cups	1 cups
11 inches/28 cm	13 inches	12 to 14 min.	4¼ cups	1¾ cups
12½ inches/32 cm	14½ inches	14 min.	4¾ cups	2 to 2¼ cups

^*
I like the rhubarb to have a slight texture. If you prefer a smooth texture, stirring at this point will accomplish it.

^*
You may have to overlap sheets of plastic wrap to roll the dough large enough.

SAVORY TARTS AND PIES—AND QUICHE

A
flaky pie crust elevates even the most homey savory dish. Meat loaf (page 331), a classic American favorite, has a much more exciting visual, taste, and texture appeal when wrapped in a Cheddar cheese flaky pie crust. The recipes I have included in this section are my all-time favorites and ones I will be making for many years to come.

When it comes to quiche, though I have always enjoyed this custard tart, I have never been able to eat more than a small piece because of its richness. I love a custard filling in a sweet tart or pie, but find it easier to eat because the sweet versions are eaten cold or at room temperature. The cool creamy filling against the buttery crust seems less rich. For this reason, I prefer to serve quiche warm or at room temperature, rather than hot from the oven. This has the additional advantage of giving the flavors a chance to blend and intensify. (I find this also works well for other savory tarts. Potpies, however, which contain more liquid, or gravy, are better eaten hot.)

Another great technique for making a delicious savory custard quiche or tart is to use just enough custard to create a soft creaminess and bind the solid ingredients, such as vegetables or seafood. The basic proportion of liquid to egg for a custard that will set nicely is
cup of liquid to 1 large egg. If there is a large amount of solid ingredients, then a softer custard of ½ cup of liquid to 1 large egg also works. I find that using all cream is far too rich. Half-and-half (which is half milk, half light cream) is my usual choice for a lighter custard. All milk will work as well. I sometimes use a combination of cræme fraîche or heavy cream and milk for a richer filling when the custard is the main ingredient, as for quiche Lorraine.

A pie crust filled with a creamy mixture has the best texture if it has been fully
prebaked. (Most frozen crusts will develop fissures if prebaked, so this is not recommended for them.)

A 9½-inch tart pan (or 9-inch pie pan)
lined with dough requires 2½ to 3¼ cups of filling and serves 4 to 6.

A 7¾-inch tart pan (or 7- to 7¼-inch pie pan)
lined with a half recipe of dough (6 to 6½ ounces) requires 1½ to 2¼ cups of filling and serves 2 to 3. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes.

For individual quiches,
use 4-inch tart pans (see page 664), lined with 2 ounces each of dough. Use a scant
cup of filling for each and bake for about 20 minutes.

DEEP-DISH CHICKEN POTPIES

T
his is not by any means a traditional chicken potpie. It is my dream chicken potpie, inspired by a one-star Michelin restaurant’s signature dish:
poulet au vin jaune.
Several years ago, my friend Shirley Corriher and I traveled to the restaurant Hôtel de Paris in Arbois to sample this specialty of chef/owner Jeunet and ended up staying in Arbois for several days, just to eat it again and again.

The filling for the pie consists of moist chunks of dark chicken meat and morel mushrooms with just enough carrot to add a little sweetness and just enough intense gravy reduction to flavor and moisten the filling.
Vin jaune,
from the Jura region of France, has a unique sort of zingy tartness that enlivens the sauce, but a good-quality German or Alsatian Riesling offers a very similar quality. Although morels possess a flavor unlike any other mushroom, button mushrooms or a combination of the two will also yield great results.

An herbed pie dough, baked separately and then placed on top of the pie just before the final heating, maintains its flakiness even on the underside. I prefer this to a two-crust pastry, as the moistness of the filling would make the bottom crust entirely soggy.

When time allows, I soak the chicken overnight in buttermilk to cover (and then drain and discard the buttermilk). The acidity of the buttermilk acts as a tenderizer and also makes the meat more flavorful.

This is a potpie elegant enough to serve at a fancy dinner party. (Use the Emile Henry 4½-inch pie plates, page 663.) Guests seem to enjoy having individual little pies.

EQUIPMENT

Six 4-inch deep-dish pie plates