In Our Prime (41 page)

66
Harper's Bazar
noted in 1912:
“Old Women's Gowns,”
Harper's Bazar,
April 1912, 46, 4, APS online, 192.

67
By 1925, the 20-year-old:
Hollander,
Sex and Suits,
137–38.

67
Abstract graphic design incorporating:
Hollander,
Seeing Through Clothes.

67
For the first time, young:
Ibid., 329–44.

67
A 1927 ad for Ivory Soap:
Ad*Access, Duke University Libraries,
http://library.duke.edu/digitalcollections/adaccess.BH0800/pg.1/
(accessed June 10, 2011).

67
In Edith Wharton's
Twilight Sleep:
Wharton,
Twilight Sleep,
231.

68
Thomas Edison was described:
Jackson Lears,
Fables of Abundance: A Cultural History of Advertising in America
(New York: Basic Books, 1994), 193.

68
Revolutionary-era physicians:
Cole,
Journey of Life,
101.

68
“There seemed to be a more”:
Hall,
Senescence,
xv.

68
Fevered talk of “an elixir of youth”:
Rebecca Skloot,
The Immortal Life of Henrietta Lacks
(New York: Broadway, 2011), 61.

68
In 1918, Leo L. Stanley:
Carole Haber, “Anti-Aging Medicine: The History,”
Journals of Gerontology Series A: Biological Sciences and Medical Sciences
59 (2004): B515–B522.

69
During a visit to the:
“Voronoff Hooted by French Doctors,”
New York Times,
October 6, 1922, 21; Floyd Gibbons, “Monkey Gland Men on Exhibit,”
Chicago Daily Tribune,
October 5, 1922.

69
In October 1922, the French Academy:
Floyd Gibbons, “Crowds Attend Voronoff Story of Renewed Men,”
Chicago Daily Tribune,
October 6, 1922, 5.

69
The French press threw:
“Voronoff's New Tests Gain Press Support,”
New York Times,
October 9, 1922, 4.

69
Popular sentiment may have accounted:
“Paris Doctors Life Ban on Voronoff,”
New York Times,
January 11, 1923, 44.

70
“Dr. Voronoff's triumph was”:
Henry Wales, “Voronoff Wins Paris Cynics to Monkey Glands,”
Chicago Daily Tribune,
October 13, 1923.

70
By 1926, an article in the:
Van Buren Thorne, “Voronoff's Dramatic Experiments in Rejuvenation,”
New York Times,
May 30, 1926.

70
Voronoff kept at it:
“Famous Surgeon Arrives to See the World's Fair,”
New York Times,
May 16, 1939, 11.

70
World War I's heedless:
Pope Brock,
Charlatan: America's Most Dangerous Huckster, the Man Who Pursued Him, and the Age of Flimflam
(New York: Crown, 2008), 32; Gay,
Schnitzler's Century,
150, mentions views of “seminal liquor.”

70
In his 1920 tract,
Life:
Gay,
Schnitzler's Century,
38.

70
Celebrated physicians with impressive:
Brock,
Charlatan,
20–21.

71
Medical diploma mills and fraud:
Ibid., 88.

71
As David and Sheila Rothman:
Sheila M. Rothman and David J. Rothman,
The Pursuit of Perfection: The Promise and Perils of Medical Enhancement
(New York: Pantheon Books, 2003), 139.

71
The book tells the story:
Gertrude Atherton,
Black Oxen
(New York: A. L. Burt Company, 1923).

71
Atherton—an arresting beauty with:
Emily Wortis Leider,
California's Daughter: Gertrude Atherton and Her Time
(Stanford, CA: Stanford University Press, 1991), 14, 28, 43, 102, 298; Atherton,
Adventures of a Novelist.

72
Like Brown-Séquard before him:
Rothman and Rothman,
Pursuit of Perfection,
138.

72
In the 1950s, he counseled:
Jan Morris,
Conundrum
(New York: NYRB Classics, 2006), 49.

73
Some of Steinach's critics:
Hall,
Senescence,
302.

73
After examining a handful:
“Gland Operation to Retard Senility,”
New York Times,
November 20, 1921.

73
As soon as Atherton read it:
Atherton,
Adventures of a Novelist,
14.

73
“Poor Dr. Benjamin! I nearly ruined him”:
Ibid., 560, 562.

73
Here, two scientists discover:
Susan Merrill Squier,
Liminal Lives: Imagining the Human at the Frontier of Biomedicine
(Durham, NC: Duke University Press, 2004), 159–60.

74
Steinach believed his treatments:
Rothman and Rothman,
Pursuit of Perfection,
140.

74
Hormone therapy could claim:
Ibid.

75
Reviewing the history of:
Sander L. Gilman,
Making the Body Beautiful: A Cultural History of Aesthetic Surgery
(Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 1999), 16–21.

75
After Darwin, the nineteenth-century:
David Serlin,
Replaceable You: Engineering the Body in Postwar America
(Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 2004), 12–13.

75
Lombroso, who treated crime:
Herman,
Idea of Decline in Western Civilization
; Bellesiles,
1877,
211–12.

75
Later Alexis Carrel, who gained fame:
Skloot,
Immortal Life of Henrietta Lacks.

75
In Nathaniel Hawthorne's 1846 story:
Gilman,
Making the Body Beautiful,
45–46.

76
“Keep in mind the great”:
Harvey Newcomb,
How to Be a Lady: A Book for Girls, Containing Useful Hints on the Formation of Character
(Boston: Gould, Kendall, and Lincoln, 1850), 15,
http://name.umdl.umich.edu/AJF2301.0001.001
(accessed June 16, 2011).

76
William Mathews, an English professor:
William Mathews,
Getting On in the World: Or, Hints on Success in Life
(Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1878), 187.

76
Orison Swett Marden, an unflagging:
Orison Swett Marden,
Character: The Grandest Thing in the World,
http://orisonswettmarden.wwwhubs.com/ctgtitw.html
(accessed June 10, 2011).

76
Hundreds of self-help books:
Susman,
Culture as History,
275–76, 280.

77
Later social scientists like Erving Goffman:
Erving Goffman,
The Presentation of Self in Everyday Life
(New York: Anchor Books, 1959); David Riesman with Nathan Glazer and Reuel Denney,
The Lonely Crowd
(New Haven, CT: Yale University Press, 1969), 46–47; Christopher Lasch,
The Culture of Narcissism: American Life in an Age of Diminishing Expectations
(New York: W. W. Norton, 1991).

77
That is why in the early years of the twentieth century:
Gilman,
Making the Body Beautiful,
104.

77
The first plastic surgery specifically:
Elizabeth Haiken,
Venus Envy: A History of Cosmetic Surgery
(Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 1997); Rothman and Rothman,
Pursuit of Perfection,
xi; Gilman,
Making the Body Beautiful,
104.

78
Jonathan Edwards, the New England:
Edward Dolnick,
The Clockwork Universe: Isaac Newton, the Royal Society, and the Birth of the Modern World
(New York: HarperCollins, 2011), 11.

78
What makes aesthetic surgery:
Sander Gilman, “Operation Happiness,” in
100,000 Years of Beauty,
Azoulay, ed., 68.

78
The analyst serves as the mostly silent:
Peter Gay makes this observation about the analyst in
Schnitzler's Century,
277.

79
In 1924, the
New York Daily Mirror:
Haiken,
Venus Envy,
98.

79
Many surgeons considered the:
Gilman,
Making the Body Beautiful,
295–319.

80
“The large national advertisers fix”:
Sinclair Lewis,
Babbitt
(New York:
bartleby.com
, 1997),
chapter 7
, section 3, paragraph 32.

81
He poured his reflections:
Hall,
Senescence,
vii; Cole,
Journey of Life,
212–26.

81
A few years later:
Lynd and Lynd,
Middletown,
30–35.

82
“Even in the professions such”:
Ibid., 35–36.

82
Periodicals more broadly echoed:
Chudacoff,
How Old Are You?

82
It was widely believed, said Stanley Burnshaw:
Roland Marchand,
Advertising the American Dream: Making Way for Modernity, 1920–1940
(Berkeley: University of California Press, 1985), 46.

82
Elmer Rice's 1923 play:
Gullette, “Midlife Discourses,” in
Welcome to Middle Age!,
Shweder, ed., 23.

83
In
Senescence,
Hall:
Hall,
Senescence,
2.

83
This fever, which can strike:
In Cole,
Journey of Life
, 220. Cole argues it is the first academic discussion of this phenomenon.

83
In Hall's view, passing as:
Cole,
Journey of Life,
217, 220.

83
The venerable psychologist turned:
Hall,
Senescence,
29.

84
Writing from the front:
Jon Savage,
Teenage: The Creation of Youth Culture
(New York: Viking, 2007), 199.

84
“Young students try to”:
F. Scott Fitzgerald,
This Side of Paradise,
200.

84
In 1924, the critic Edmund:
A. Scott Berg,
Max Perkins: Editor of Genius
(New York: Riverhead Books, 1997).

84
Modernism reversed the baleful eighteenth century:
Gay,
Modernism,
2.

85
Novelists of all stripes:
Gullette, “Midlife Discourses,” in
Welcome to Middle Age!,
Shweder, ed., 20.

85
They “proudly proclaimed”:
Marchand,
Advertising the American Dream,
xxi.

85
Born in 1886, he grew up:
Richard M. Fried,
The Man Everybody Knew: Bruce Barton and the Making of Modern America
(Chicago: Ivan R. Dee, 2005); Susman,
History as Culture.

86
“Two out of three parlors”:
Lewis,
Babbitt,
chapter 7
, section 1, paragraph 5.

86
In 1900, approximately:
Ellen Mazur Thomson,
The Origins of Graphic Design in America
(New Haven, CT: Yale University Press, 1997), 27.

86
Purchasing a car that was:
Marchand,
Advertising and the American Dream,
158–59.

87
“The American citizen's first
”:
Lynd and Lynd,
Middletown,
87.

87
Throughout the twenties:
Hollander,
Seeing Through Clothes,
20.

87
When American Telephone and Telegraph:
Marchand,
Advertising and the American Dream,
117–18, 156–58.

87
Jesus “picked up twelve men from the bottom”:
Fried,
The Man Everybody Knew,
4, 66; Bruce Barton,
The Man Nobody Knows: The Discovery of the Real Jesus
(Chicago: I. R. Dee, 2000), 37–40.

88
In “Creed of the Advertising Man”:
Marchand,
Advertising and the American Dream,
8–9, 128.

88
Calvin Coolidge offered:
Susman,
Culture as History,
xxvi; Marchand,
Advertising and the American Dream,
158–59.

88
“All fixed, fast-frozen relations, with”:
Karl Marx and Friedrick Engels,
The Communist Manifesto,
chapter 1
,
http://www.marxists.org/archive/marx/works/1848/communist-manifesto/ch01.htm
(accessed June 16, 2011).

89
After World War II, mass:
Lizbeth Cohen,
A Consumers' Republic: The Politics of Mass Consumption in Postwar America
(New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 2003).